“A culinary treasure trove” — Chef Christof Widakovich on Austria's most underrated gastronomic destination

Austria’s second-largest city, Graz is a well-kept secret among food-focused travellers. Set among the farms and vineyards of Styria, in Austria’s southeast corner, it's the focal point of a region known for its delicate wines, apple orchards and speciality pumpkin seed oils. The city’s many eateries combine an abundance of seasonal and regional produce with a strong gastronomic heritage and a dynamic network of chefs. Chief among them is Christof Widakovich, head chef and CEO at Restaurant Schlossberg, where diners can enjoy innovative takes on traditional specialities accompanied by inspiring views over the city’s old town. Here, he takes us through the city’s culinary highlights, from classic dishes and dining experiences to lesser-known local ingredients.

How would you describe the cuisine of Graz? 
Bold. It’s shaped by our neighbours, such as Slovenia and Italy, but although we gaze to the south, we don’t lose sight of the ground under our feet. Our cuisine has evolved significantly in recent years, becoming much more daring.

What is it that draws chefs to the city?
Both Graz and Styria are a huge culinary treasure trove, the contents of which could not be more varied. Our relative proximity to the sea means we have easy access to saltwater fish, as well as the best olive oil and other products from across the borders. There’s everything from freshwater fish in the Alps to local game in the Hochschwab Mountains. You’ll even find rare breeds such as Murbodner cattle, and farmers revisiting vegetable varieties that have been almost forgotten elsewhere in Europe. Ginger, turmeric and coriander are also cultivated here. 

Which dish or ingredient would you suggest to a first-time visitor to Graz? 
Our classics, such as steirischer vogerlsalat (lamb’s lettuce, potatoes, egg, speck and pumpkin seed oil) and backhendl (crispy fried chicken), are absolute musts for all visitors, but there’s much more to discover. Be sure to try Styrian shrimp and Styrian branzino (European bass), as well as the Wagyu beef that is bred right here. Ours can definitely compete with world-class products.

Which foods defined your childhood? 
Growing up in Graz, both of my parents loved to cook, especially my father. He was very creative. A particular highlight was his topfenknödel (curd dumplings) with a sweet tomato sauce — almost revolutionary when I think back to it now. Another meal that sticks in my mind is reisfleisch (a rice dish with meat), as well as lots of fish and naturschnitzerl mit erbsenreis (cutlets with rice and peas). 

For those thinking about a food-focused city break, what makes Graz stand out?
Graz is known as the culinary capital of Austria — so already this says a lot. The team spirit in the gastronomy community is extremely important here. Unlike other cities where everyone is focused on their own dishes, in Graz the restaurateurs stick together. We like to challenge and encourage each other and set common goals. We’ve had truffle weeks and game weeks, for example, or tried to pair dishes with the best wines from southern Styria. In addition to a rich cultural heritage — we were named European City of Culture in 2003 — I’d say that food is omnipresent in every corner of Graz. 

Finally, food aside, why else should travellers visit the city?
The way of life. For both visitors and residents, Graz is just the right size. It feels like any classic big city packed with culture, great food and leisure activities, but Graz also has a small core full of familiar faces. If you want company, you can simply go out alone — you'll soon bump into someone! 

Christof’s top three culinary experiences in Graz:

Kaiser Josef Markt: A colourful and lively food market where you can experience the true variety of Styrian produce. Pop into Genießerei am Markt to find these seasonal ingredients on the menu.  

The Schlossberg: Accessible by lift or funicular railway, the Schlossberg hill is a city landmark with excellent views across Graz. It’s also home to the award-winning Restaurant Schlossberg.  

City food tours: There are several themed tours available that allow you to taste your way through the city, visiting a variety of restaurants and discovering more about history of Graz along the way.

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