How to spend a day in San Salvador, El Salvador’s revitalised capital

Known as Central America’s ‘land of volcanoes’ for its abundance of active and dormant examples, El Salvador continues to welcome increased numbers of intrepid travellers each year. Perched on the Pacific Ocean, bordered by neighbours Honduras and Guatemala, the country is just over 8,000 square miles in size (only slightly larger than Wales). El Salvador’s capital and largest city, San Salvador, sits almost in the middle, near its namesake volcano. Officially declared a city in 1546, San Salvador has experienced a turbulent history but is now considered to be one of the safest places on the entire continent.

El Salvador’s smouldering volcanic peaks and undulating hills are only a short distance from the cosmopolitan capital, making the city a good base for travellers. Take a day or two to explore San Salvador’s peaceful parks and plazas before venturing out to explore the rest of the country. Here’s how to make the best use of your time — from strolling along the city’s airy avenues to sampling local cuisine.

When to go

Due to the country’s tropical climate, travellers are almost guaranteed to enjoy sun-soaked city streets in San Salvador from November to April, while the damper months of May to October come with their own perks. Heavy and intense as the rains may be, downpours are typically short, lasting just one to two hours — and in the wake of these showers, the city comes alive with lush seasonal greenery. It’s also the best period for travellers looking to spend a few days surfing, as the waves hit their prime in the wetter months. 

What to see

Although Spain’s colonial grip on San Salvador has long been relinquished, evidence of its imperial rule lingers in the grandiose architecture of the city’s historic centre. Recent renovations and investments have helped to restore the capital’s former glory, and some of the most impressive buildings in the city line the bustling squares of Plaza Gerardo Barrios and Plaza Morazán.

To see the centre in all its splendour, take a stroll between the fluted columns of the National Palace and beneath the imposing carved facade of the nearby Calvary Chapel. Pass by the golden walls of the National Theater of San Salvador, where visitors wait patiently to file into the ornate opera hall, and continue to the towering white walls of the Metropolitan Cathedral. Next, deviate slightly from the central plazas and dip into El Rosario Church, where stained glass windows cast technicolour sunlight over the congregation.

Away from its historic heart, San Salvador’s array of serene parks offer a reprieve from the city crowds. Take to the shaded forest trails of Bicentennial Park for a taste of the country’s green interior or join the locals that gather for picnics and events in Avenida El Espino Park.

What to do

El Salvador and its modern capital still bear signs of the ancient grandeur of the influential empires that thrived across Mesoamerica. Relics of early rulers of the land, displayed in the halls of the National Museum of Anthropology (MUNA), offer clues about its evolution. Peruse the sacrificial tools of the Maya and the artistry of the mysterious Olmecs, who shaped the story of pre-Hispanic America. After unravelling El Salvador’s human story, walk through the colourful collection of flora and fauna in the La Laguna Botanical Garden. Set within a volcanic crater, the lush garden is filled with orchids and small pools with turtles swimming between lily pads.

Close out the day cloistered in the low-lit hall of Club La Dalia, a San Salvador stalwart that’s survived since the 1930s. The old-school pool hall and bar has catered to famous faces including ambassadors and diplomats over the past century, but it’s the charismatic locals who have their framed portraits hanging on the walls. Rack up the balls for a game or simply sit back and sip on a cocktail infused with spiced Salvadorean rum.

Where to eat

Ask any Salvadoreño about their favourite local food and they’ll likely give you the same answer — pupusas, grilled tortillas made of corn or rice meal stuffed with various fillings. Map out an informal tour of pupuserías (establishments that specialise in the dish) in the Antiguo Cuscatlán neighbourhood to sample the steaming snacks packed with ingredients like pork belly, chorizo or scrambled egg.

Try more of El Salvador’s traditional plates by joining the crowds that converge at Casa Campo’s various locations throughout the city. Enjoy live music while tucking into grilled meats with griddled plantain or crispy yuca. Alternatively, head to the rooftop terrace at La Doña Steakhouse, which overlooks the striking domes of the colonial centre. The upscale restaurant sears steaks and succulent shrimp on a parilla grill.

Where to stay

San Salvador’s most comfortable stays are provided by several big-name hoteliers who have kept an eye on El Salvador’s resurgence as a travel destination. For those seeking relaxation and an abundance of amenities, the Intercontinental San Salvador-Metrocentro Mall in the city’s central business district is a good choice — offering a spa and a range of international dining options, including Brazilian-inspired steakhouse, Faisca do Brasil and Japanese-focused Nau Sushi Lounge. Travellers looking to be close to lively local restaurants and bars should opt to stay at the Hyatt Centric San Salvador, situated in the Antiguo Cuscatlán neighbourhood. The boutique hotel has a cafe dedicated to coffee and pupusas, as well as a swimming pool with a bar.