On the trail of myths, modern medicine and medieval wonders in Kos

Visitors flock to Kos, in Greece’s Dodecanese archipelago, for its beaches, vibrant nightlife and culturally fascinating capital, Kos town. Long before modern-day devotees were drawn to these sandy shores, the Asclepieion of Kos, a renowned healing centre, drew pilgrims seeking what we know today as holistic healthcare. Hippocrates, born on the island in the fifth-century BCE, subscribed to human-centred care and introduced pioneering methods for disease prevention, diagnosis and treatment. Evidence of the father of modern medicine’s influence can still be found on Kos today. Beyond the philosophy-minded medic, the island’s rich history encompasses Roman finds, fiery battles led by the Knights of St John and Byzantine wonders.

Start your journey at the third-century BCE Asclepieion of Kos, the island’s most noteworthy ancient site, situated about two miles south west of Kos’s capital. It’s easy to understand why this verdant location, on a low hill facing the Turkish coast, was selected as a site to worship Asclepius, the god of medicine and healing. Well-preserved finds range from the third-century BCE Ionic temple, a second-century BCE Doric temple and a building where sick people slept, expecting Asclepius to heal them in their dreams. To get there, rent a car, hire a bike, catch a local bus or book a private tour with a licensed tour guide. Buy timed entry tickets online, allowing a maximum one-hour visit for €15 (£12.75). Admission is free for children up to 18 years of age.

Kos’s Roman-era heritage is exemplified in a second-century amphitheatre, centrally located in town. Extensive restoration work during the island’s Italian occupation (1912-1943) and the decades that followed succeeded in reviving the 750-capacity Roman Odeon, now host to a regular programme of cultural performances. While admission to the site (closed Tuesdays) is free, tickets must be purchased to attend a theatre or music performance held at the venue in summer during the annual Hippocratia Festival. The best seats in the house are in the first nine rows, which feature original marble dating back to the amphitheatre’s construction. If you’d prefer to dodge the crowds, visit early or late in the day. Worth seeing is a marble statue of Hippocrates that once stood proud at the site and today enjoys shelter at the Archaeological Museum of Kos in Kos town.

Continue to weave your way through Kos’s Roman past with a stroll through Casa Romana, a five-minute walk east of the theatre. Dating from between the late second and early third century, this grand, Pompeian-style villa showcases the affluent lives of ancient Romans. The building is believed to have been the home of a local official, featuring 36 rooms and relatively advanced plumbing. Built on the ruins of a Hellenistic house, it’s structured around three atria — two flanked by two-storey Rhodian-style porticos. Intricate mosaic tiling adorns the atrium floors and several rooms. Perhaps most impressive is a depiction of a seabed, illustrated with fantastical marine creatures, housed in the on-site archaeological museum. Intact Hellenistic era treasures, such as pristine statues of Athena and a collection of nymphs, are also on display. Admission to the site (closed Tuesdays) costs €6 (£5.10), falling to €3 (£2.55) in winter.

Toward the middle of the island, a 14.9-mile drive west of Kos town, stands the Castle of Antimacheia. In the late Middle Ages, the Knights Hospitaller of St John built this sprawling medieval fortress on a plateau south east of modern-day Antimacheia village. With uninterrupted Aegean views to the south, this imposing citadel played a critical role in the Knights’ defence against an Ottoman attack in 1457. A 156-strong fleet of ships containing 16,000 soldiers stormed the castle, where around 25,000 inhabitants had taken shelter. Reportedly, just 15 knights and around 300 mostly unarmed citizens battled the marauding forces for 23 days before the Ottomans withdrew. Little is left of the interior apart from the 16th-century Byzantine Church of Aghios Nikolaos, the 18th-century Church of Agia Paraskevi, the ruins of the settlement that predates modern Antimacheia and a few cisterns. However, the reinforced walls are a sight to behold: look for the marble-engraved Knights symbol at the semicircular-shaped bastion near the castle entrance. Entrance is free.

Wrap up your voyage through Kos’s vivid history by heading off the beaten track to Palio Pyli, an 11th-century fortified settlement that’s a 10.3-mile drive west of Kos town. According to the monk Christodoulos Latrinos of Patmos, a revered figure in Byzantine asceticism, the area was uninhabited when he arrived in 1080. Here, he established Panagia Kastriani Monastery, dedicated to the Virgin Mary. All that remains of it today is a humble stone-built church decorated with faded yet exquisite frescoes, some thought to date back to the 11th century. If you’d like a rare peek behind its locked doors, be there when parishioners celebrate the church’s feast day on 2 February every year.