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    wooden beam in khinalig Azerbaijan
    • Travel

    A photographer’s journey to Azerbaijan’s most remote village

    High in the Greater Caucasus, secluded Khinalig has been inhabited for thousands of years. These photographs shine a light on the locals, their historic culture, and the adventure-inspiring terrain that surrounds them.

    Hidden away deep within the Greater Caucasus Mountains, the ancient Azerbaijani village of Khinalig is keeping the old ways alive in a spectacular setting. 
    Photograph by Karolina Wiercigroch
    Story and photographs byKarolina Wiercigroch
    Published July 6, 2023
    • 7 min read
    This paid content article was created for Azerbaijan Tourism Board. It does not necessarily reflect the views of National Geographic, National Geographic Traveller (UK) or their editorial staffs.

    Perched just over 7,200ft above sea level, Khinalig is one of the loftiest and most remote settlements in the Greater Caucasus. Despite the harsh climate and scarce resources of the Shahdag Mountains, people have resided in the village since the Bronze Age. Its inhabitants — a minority ethnic group who speak a unique language known as Khinalug — have been practising transhumance for centuries. This involves moving livestock to lowlands in winter and highlands in summer, in search of grazing ground. 

    The culture of the Khinalig people and the ‘Köç yolu' transhumance route (seasonal migration route), which the locals and their livestock follow in pursuit of green grass, has been filed to World Heritage Committee for inclusion in UNESCO's World Heritage List. The result of this will be made known in September 2023, during the 45th session of the World Heritage Committee. 

    shepherd in khinalig
    Herding sheep has been the main occupation and source of income for people in Khinalig for centuries. Sheep still provides milk, meat, wool and skin — the latter made into sacks for storing and transporting motal: a traditional sheep’s milk cheese, produced in small quantities in the mountain pastures during late spring. Additionally, gamra (sheep manure) is used as heating fuel in the lowlands during winters.
    Photograph by Karolina Wiercigroch
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
    Khinalig mountain village Azerbaijan
    Traditional houses in Khinalig were built with river stones. Because of the harsh climate, limited construction space and constant strong winds, the buildings are clustered close together. They have a unique terrace-like structure, where the roof of one house serves as the front yard of another. In some parts of the village, historic soil roofs have been replaced with metal sheets.
    Photograph by Karolina Wiercigroch
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
    craftwork in Khinalig, Azerbaijan
    Imche Hasmamadova presents local weaving and wool processing methods. Traditionally, rugs were woven in every household with each family developing distinctive combinations of colours and patterns. This helped to identify people’s belongings, wrapped in rugs when they migrated between the highlands and lowlands. Imche complains that younger generations aren’t interested in learning the art of rug weaving. Nowadays, sock making is more popular with patterns still passed from generation to generation. Women make socks for their own use and to sell to visitors.
    Photograph by Karolina Wiercigroch
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
    Khinalig mountain village Azerbaijan
    A group of hikers admire the views of the Greater Caucasus Mountains from Khinalig, near village buildings with traditional stone cladding. The mountain range stretches for approximately 750 miles between the Taman Peninsula of the Black Sea and the Absheron Peninsula of the Caspian Sea.
    Photograph by Karolina Wiercigroch
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
    Lunch is served in Khinalig, the mountain village in Azerbaijan.
    Zaur Lalayev serves lunch — a traditional local dish of goat meat, boiled with potatoes, wild herbs, dried sloe berries and greengage plums. It’s accompanied by a sweet side of poached raisins, apricots, fried onions, plums and mild spices. Due to the climate and high altitude, the traditional diet of villagers mainly consists of meat — goat, lamb and game — and dairy. Fresh fruit and vegetables were mostly transported from the lowlands and, before the opening of a motorway, a rare occurrence. Potatoes, cabbage and wheat are some of the few crops that can be grown here.
    Photograph by Karolina Wiercigroch
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
    baklava in Khinalig Azerbaijan
    Dessert, which is Azerbaijani baklava filled with ground and caramelised walnuts, is served at the house of Yegane Lalayeva and Zaur Lalayev.  The delicacies were bought from a bakery in the centre of Guba, a city famous for its sweets. People from Khinalig regularly drive to Guba, which takes about an hour on the new motorway, for supplies.
    Photograph by Karolina Wiercigroch
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
    Tea in Khinalig, the mountain village in Azerbaijan.
    Tea is served from a samovar at the house of Yegane Lalayeva and Zaur Lalayev — a local mountain guide and homestay owner. Wild herbs are often added to teas for their medicinal properties, and foraging for plants, both for culinary and medicinal purposes, is still an important part of the Khinalig lifestyle.
    Photograph by Karolina Wiercigroch
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
    Khinalig mountain village Azerbaijan
    There are several hiking trails around Khinalig, including a trek to the neighbouring village of Galakhudat, all offering magnificent views of the Greater Caucasus Mountains. Those walking to Galakhudat will see the steep cliffs of Mount Gizilgaya and the vast Gudyalchay river valley.
    Photograph by Karolina Wiercigroch
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
    mountain views in Khinalig, Azerbaijan
    Breathtaking mountain views seen from one of Khinalig’s two museums — the Museum of the Khinalig State Historical, Architectural and Ethnographical Reserve. Khinalig is surrounded by some of the highest points in Azerbaijan, including the summit of Bazarduzu (4,465 metres), Shahdag (4,243 metres) and Gizilgaya (3,723 metres).
    Photograph by Karolina Wiercigroch
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
    Khinalig has two history and ethnography museums that house decorative objects, tools, coins and pottery found at archeological sites surrounding the village. Some of these sites have been dated to the early Bronze Age, meaning the Greater Caucasus settlement may have roots going back at least 5,000 years. 
    Photograph by Karolina Wiercigroch
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
    The Köç Yolu is the route of seasonal movement between the highland meadows of Shahdag Mountains and the lowlands of Shirvan. The arrival of roads and motor vehicles, in modern times, have transformed Khinalig's accessibility for locals and travellers.
    Photograph by Karolina Wiercigroch
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
    Plan your trip
    Azerbaijan Airways (AZAL) operate flights between Baku's Heydar Aliyev International Airport and Heathrow. Driving from Baku to Khinalig takes just under four hours, with the road journey from nearby Guba taking approximately 90 minutes. For more about visiting this destination, go to azerbaijan.travel
    To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only). 


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