National Geographic Logo - Home
    PAID CONTENT FOR THE WAKAYAMA TOURISM FEDERATION
    Kumano Nachi Taisha stands four stories tall. Each level is square, marked by a charcoal roof and an orange floor/balcony. Behind, a waterfall cascades to the green forest floor.
    Kumano Nachi Taisha is one of three shrines connected by Wakayama's Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trails. It sits beside Nachi Falls, the tallest single-tiered waterfall in Japan.
    Photograph by Wakayama Tourism Federation
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
    • Travel

    Discover the spiritual heartland of Japan

    ​For those seeking peace and serenity, the Japanese prefecture of Wakayama is a treasure trove of untouched nature, sacred sanctuaries, ancient pilgrimage routes and temple lodgings.


    ByDonny Kimball
    Published December 19, 2022
    • 6 min read
    This paid content article was created for Wakayama Tourism Federation. It does not necessarily reflect the views of National Geographic, National Geographic Traveller (UK) or their editorial staffs.

    With their bright lights, bustling streets and varied culinary experiences, the Japanese cities of Osaka and Kyoto will be back on many travellers’ lists now that the country’s borders have reopened. But venture off the beaten track to the prefecture of Wakayama, south of these two cities, and you’ll discover a distinctly different side to Japan.

    Although coastal Wakayama city does bring a metropolitan feel to the northwestern corner of the region, it’s when you head east, into the forests and hills that dominate this prefecture, that you get a true taste of Wakayama.

    With its roaring waterfalls, dense green mountains and seemingly never-ending cedar forests, Wakayama is a region of true natural beauty and deep spiritual significance. From the shrines of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes to the Buddhist bastion atop Koyasan — both of which were awarded UNESCO World Heritage status in the early 2000s — there’s much to discover.

    The best way to begin your exploration here is by taking to the paths of the Kumano Kodo. Translated as the ‘old road of Kumano’, this ancient network of pilgrimage routes unfurls across the prefecture and beyond, connecting the Kumano Sanzan (a trio of shrines in the south of Wakayama) with Koyasan (a temple complex in the north of the region) and Ise Grand Shrine in Mie prefecture to the east.

    A staircase in the woodlands. Two people climb it. The trees are exceptionally green.
    The Kumano Kodo is one of only two pilgrimage routes in the world with World Heritage status — the other being Europe's Camino de Santiago. 
    Photograph by Wakayama Tourism Federation
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.

    In total, there are seven hiking trails on the Kumano Kodo, but the most popular is the Nakahechi route. With manageable terrain, breathtaking views and effective infrastructure (including plenty of English signage), it’s the most accessible trail and offers a well-rounded overview of all Wakayama has to offer. Beginning in Tanabe city. the Nakahechi cuts through the mountainous core of the Kii Peninsula, linking the three Grand Shrines of Kumano. It would take close to a week to hike this entire epic route, so most travellers opt for smaller, more condensed tastes of the trail. The stretch from Tsugizakura-oji to Kumano Hongu Taisha, the main shrine of the Kumano Sanzan trinity, is a great option for a simple, well-signed one-day hike. Simply take a bus from Kii-Tanabe station to Tsugizakura-oji and follow the signs.

    Once done with the Kumano Kodo, head north to the mountaintop town of Koyasan, one of Japan’s most secluded spiritual destinations and the centre of the Shingon sect of Japanese Buddhism. Here, temples have sat serenely among the cedar forests since the year 816, when Japanese monk Kobo Daishi founded the area’s first temple, thus establishing Shingon Buddhism in Japan.

    A fiery red temple. It is square, and has a roof for each of its two stories. At the top, a turquoise mast. Forest trees are in the background, and the sky is blue.
    Koyasan is one of Wakayama's most significant spiritual destinations, a vast temple complex seen as the birthplace of Shingon Buddhism in Japan.
    Photograph by Wakayama Tourism Federation
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.

    With its striking scarlet pagodas, vast temples and fascinating monuments, Koyasan has plenty to explore. Although you can easily visit on a day trip from a city like Osaka — just over an hour and a half away by car — don’t limit yourself to just one day here. Instead, book a stay at a shukubo, a traditional Buddhist temple lodging for pilgrims.

    Of the 117 temples still in operation here (it’s believed there were about 2,000 during Kyosan’s peak in the Edo period), 52 of them open their doors as shukubo. Here, visitors can enjoy comfortable lodgings and delicious shojin ryori (traditional vegetarian Buddhist cuisine), as well as the opportunity to experience and partake in the inner workings of monastic life.

    No trip to Koyasan would be complete without a visit to the sacred site of Okunoin. Here, the mausoleum of Kobo Daishi is surrounded by the largest cemetery in Japan, where more than 200,000 tombstones lie among towering cedar trees. Kobo Daishi himself, however, is still believed to be alive and in a state of eternal meditation, awaiting the arrival of the ‘Future Buddha’ who will one day return to earth. 

    A stone walkway, wet from fresh nighttime rain. A lamp burns on the left, and two spotlights shine from trees above. Woodland surrounds.
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
    The West Tower, one of the many architectural structures of Koyasan. Four monks gather outside, each wearing an orange or a yellow robe. The building is square and wooden. It has charcoal tiles.
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
    Left: The cemetery of Okunoin is one of the largest in the world and is best explored on an atmospheric night tour.
    Right: The West Tower, one of the many architectural structures of Koyasan.
    Photographs by Wakayama Tourism Federation

    After taking in the magnitude of the cemetery, head up to Torodo Hall, also known as ‘the hall of lanterns’. This is a key place of worship in Okunoin and holds more than 10,000 permanently lit lamps donated by followers of Kobo Daishi. It’s a truly beautiful sight, one that will inspire reverence in even the most stoic of travellers.

    One of the best ways to appreciate the eerie calm of Okunoin is by booking a monk-led night tour. Although Torodo Hall won’t be open after sunset, Okunoin’s hauntingly enchanting atmosphere more than makes up for it, with lanterns lighting the way as your guides share stories of the cemetery and its sacred sites.

    Plan your trip

    Fly to Osaka’s Kansai International Airport, which has frequent, one-stop options from London Heathrow. From here, there are good bus and train services along the coast to Wakayama City, and from there to Koyasan. Hiring a car is also a good option if you want to explore further, as much of the area is mountainous and remote.

    For more information, visit visitwakayama.jp

    Follow National Geographic Traveller (UK) on social media

    Facebook | Instagram | Twitter



    Read This Next

    AI can help you plan your next trip—if you know how to ask.
    • Travel

    AI can help you plan your next trip—if you know how to ask.

    Experts weigh in on the best ways to use tools like ChatGPT for travel—and how to avoid being duped by AI “hallucinations.”
    Did this mysterious human relative bury its dead?
    • Science

    Did this mysterious human relative bury its dead?

    If the claims are true, the behavior by Homo naledi—a baffling, small-brained member of the human family tree—would pre-date the earliest known burials by at least 100,000 years.
    This new birth control for cats doesn't require surgery
    • Science

    This new birth control for cats doesn't require surgery

    Scientists have developed a gene therapy contraceptive for cats that could reduce the deaths of birds and mammals. The treatment is easy to administer and lasts a lifetime.
    How the Zoot Suit Riots changed America
    • History & Culture

    How the Zoot Suit Riots changed America

    80 years ago, young men of color were attacked for their “unpatriotic” fashion choices, leading to the Zoot Suit Riots. The repercussions can still be felt today.

    Legal

    • Terms of Use
    • Privacy Policy
    • Your US State Privacy Rights
    • Children's Online Privacy Policy
    • Interest-Based Ads
    • About Nielsen Measurement
    • Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information

    Our Sites

    • Nat Geo Home
    • Attend a Live Event
    • Book a Trip
    • Buy Maps
    • Inspire Your Kids
    • Shop Nat Geo
    • Visit the D.C. Museum
    • Watch TV
    • Learn About Our Impact
    • Support Our Mission
    • Nat Geo Partners
    • Masthead
    • Press Room
    • Advertise With Us

    Join Us

    • Subscribe
    • Customer Service
    • Renew Subscription
    • Manage Your Subscription
    • Work at Nat Geo
    • Sign Up for Our Newsletters
    • Contribute to Protect the Planet

    Follow us


    National Geographic Logo - Home

    Copyright © 1996-2015 National Geographic SocietyCopyright © 2015-2023 National Geographic Partners, LLC. All rights reserved