Where to eat on the Swiss Riviera this winter

On the northern shores of Lake Geneva lies a slice of Switzerland that’s long been a magnet for stylish travellers. Aristocratic tourists — including Lord Byron and Percy Shelley — were attracted to elegant lakefront hotels in Montreux, Vevey and Lausanne in the earliest days of European tourism. Today, though just minutes apart on the lake-snaking railway, these destinations remain distinctly different, each with its own range of creative restaurants, cafes and bars. Embark on a gastronomic winter weekend to enjoy them at their best.  

Montreux

Start your journey in the bustling town of Montreux. In summer, it’s home to the world-famous Montreux Jazz Festival, but winter here is undeniably more atmospheric. Visit in December to soak up the festive charm of the Christmas market, where wooden cabins kiss the lakeshore. Sip mulled wine as you stroll past some 170 stalls of artisan crafts and local produce, before cosying up for a hot fondue. 

Next, head along the lake to the Fairmont Le Montreux Palace. Built in 1906, the hotel is one of the area’s finest examples of Swiss belle époque architecture and has welcomed Jazz Festival greats such as Miles Davis, Aretha Franklin and Quincy Jones. Its popular themed Sunday brunch is accompanied by live pianists and sweeping views over Lake Geneva. 

Funky Claude’s Bar — named after the hero of Deep Purple’s Montreux-set song Smoke on the Water — offers ample opportunity to spot visiting musicians. While you’re there, sample a creative playlist of cocktails, including the Chuck Berry and Like A Virgin.

Vevey & Lavaux

A short journey west of Montreux will see you reach Vevey, where majestic hotels flank the lakeside promenade. However, it’s the streets between them that are most worth exploring: they’re home to small, characterful spots with a reverence for contemporary culture. 

Stop in at Le Café Littéraire, whose seasonal menus are complemented by music and more. L’Appartement is an art gallery and cafe above Vevey railway station, while Mosaic Room features both a ‘participative foodlab’ and a sewing bar. Or join the cool crowd at Brew Society, where slow-brewed coffee, superfood bowls and plant-based burgers are firm favourites.

A detour to the steep terraces of the UNESCO-designated wine region of Lavaux is a must when visiting Vevey. Escape the winter chill with a tasting at wine bar and boutique Les 11 Terres, followed by dinner at the Auberge de l’Onde in the pretty medieval village of Saint-Saphorin. This cosy inn promises ‘a regional bistronomic experience between vineyards and lake.’ Consider returning in summer, too, when it’s easy to wander from one family-run vineyard to the next, stopping for samples en route. 

Lausanne

Catch the train further west around the lake and you’ll reach Lausanne. Among Switzerland’s largest cities, it has attracted artists, writers and free-thinkers for centuries; Voltaire, Charles Dickens and TS Eliot all found inspiration here. Today, the city’s innovative and intellectual spirit is kept alive by students at the EPFL research institute, Europe’s answer to MIT. 

Cafe culture reigns supreme in Lausanne. One local favourite is Cafe de Grancy: a classic student hangout that occupies the ground floor of a lavish 19th-century apartment building. Enjoy antique chaises longues, slouchy sofas and an extensive coffee and hot chocolate menu. 

A short walk through the pretty city centre will see you reach Deli Social, a more radical addition to Lausanne’s cafe scene. This innovative food lab, magazine shop and workspace is run by Royal College of Art alumni Emily Groves and Rhys Williams. 

Visit on a Wednesday or Saturday to pick up a selection of seasonal goods at Lausanne’s city centre market. Fruit and vegetable stalls line the pedestrianised Rue de Bourg and Place de la Palud, with cheese and charcuterie in Place de la Riponne and a thriving flea market on the fringes. Finally, round off your visit with a dinner at Brasserie de Montbenon, where a youthful team serves a farm-to-table menu in an elegant setting that dates back to 1908.