A wine lover's guide to Zurich

Even in the heart of Zurich — Switzerland's vibrant cultural capital — you're only a whisper away from Lake Zurich, whose deep-blue waters spread out at the foot of the Alps. Romans first planted wine on these shores two millennia ago — a tradition families have upheld for generations. While locals have long treasured these grapes, word is spreading as wineries up their creativity and sustainability efforts. Visitors can explore vineyards located right in the city centre or breeze to the tranquil and fantastically compact wine region around Lake Zurich in just under an hour by boat or train. If ever there was a region to make you want to crack open a bottle of something special, this is it. Here's how to experience the best of Zurich’s wine scene.

What to know

Many cellars across Zurich open their doors for tastings, events and guided tours, allowing you to meet the vintners and develop a deeper appreciation of their wines. Here, you’ll discover the region’s terroir, defined by gentle moraine slopes and a sunny microclimate, and learn about the grapes themselves. The main one you’ll want to look out for is the flagship Räuschling, a native white grape that produces crisp, lively, minerally whites with good acidity and light citrus notes. Müller-Thurgau — a tart, juicy white created from Riesling and Madeleine Royale — is another must-try. Soft and fruit-forward, with aromas of wild berries and cherries, pinot noir is traditionally the dominant grape when it comes to the region's reds, but more progressive wineries are now dabbling in planting other varieties, including malbec and merlot.

Where to go

Landolt Winery is the largest winegrower in Zurich, cultivating almost six hectares of grapevines. At vineyards in the heart of the city and across the Zurich region, Landolt grows 10 different varieties of grape to create its 30 unique wines. For wine tasting in the city itself, visit Hundertwein in the Old Town. The bar offers a carefully curated selection of exactly 100 low-intervention wines. Or visit the city’s first natural wine bar, 169 West, at the Weststrasse in Zurich's buzzy District 3, where you'll also find plenty of top-notch restaurants.

The slopes around Lake Zurich have scores of family-run wineries with far-reaching views. For a primer, stop by the Lake Zurich Wine Growing Museum (open on Sundays from 2pm to 4pm), lodged in a historic farmhouse on the Au Peninsula. Here, you can brush up on your knowledge of grape varieties, glimpse an impressive 18th-century wine press and join a guided tour before a tasting.

Terraced vineyards stagger scenically above the lake at Bachmann Winery in Stäfa, run with plenty of passion and innovation by the young vintner couple Theres and Jonathan Bachmann. Their lake, mountain and reserve wines are right up there with the region’s finest. Standouts include a sparkling Räuschling with palate-awakening notes of hay flower, apple and pear and a citrussy, slightly spicy Riesling-Sylvaner (another name for Müller-Thurgau). Look out for tasting events in summer, when wines are expertly matched with regional specialities.

In a beautiful spot on the lake in Küsnacht, Diederik Winery is equally unmissable. With south-west-facing vines and arresting sunsets, it's headed up by Didi and Patricia Michel, another young couple putting a fresh spin on a traditional vineyard. The winery hosts Saturday wine tastings, summertime open wine cellar days and DJ + Wine — a festival set amongst the vines. Give its sparkling Petit Rhin and zingy Räuschling whites a try, along with the vineyard's full-bodied and velvety Cuvée reds.

Located in Freienbach, Kümin is a fourth-generation winery that has been popping corks since 1902. Sauvignon blanc, pinot gris and Räuschling whites are among their huge array of characterful wines. From late August to early September, it hosts Feast in the Distillery, pairing wines and fruit liqueurs with smoked pork cooked in a copper still and served with saffron risotto.

Where to eat

If all that wine-tasting piques the appetite, you've struck gold food-wise on Lake Zurich, which is home to some of Switzerland’s best restaurants. Located on Thalwil harbour, Portofino serves stellar Italian dishes on its large terrace overlooking the lake. Alternatively, visit Seerestaurant L’O in Horgen. This lakeside spot serves freshly caught fish from Lake Zurich and wines sourced from vineyards close to the water, including those on Zurich’s ‘Gold Coast.’ Or snag a terrace table at Fischer’s Fritz in Zurich to enjoy peaceful waterfront views as you dig into the likes of sushi made with fish fresh from the lake or crispy beer-battered whitefish.

Visitors can also take the ferry over to Ufenau Island towards the east end of Lake Zurich. The island, which has been owned by nearby Einsiedeln Abbey since the year 965, is home to Inselwirtschaft, an inviting restaurant serving regional dishes and wines from the abbey's cellar.

Where to stay

Wake up to views of the lake through the floor-to-ceiling windows of your sunlit room or suite at Alex Lake Zurich in Thalwil. The five-star boutique hotel has a spa and health club with a lake-facing pool, hammam and heated loungers, plus a sophisticated bar and a restaurant hovering right above the water. 

With views over the lake to the Glarus Alps, hilltop Hotel Belvoir’s tagline ‘Instagrammable since 1721’ is spot on, thanks to its playful rooms which mix historic architecture and contemporary design. Sundowners on the panoramic terrace, a restaurant taking pride in local sourcing and a spa with an outdoor hot tub and flotation bath are the icing on the cake.

Baur au Lac, which overlooks Lake Zurich and the Alps, is also an ideal place for wine enthusiasts. The hotel’s head sommelier, Marc Almert, has curated an impressive wine selection for guests, showcasing over 300 wine producers from 14 countries.

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