The Pantanal wetland is Brazil's jaguar country—and a wildlife photographer's dream

The world's largest wetland, Brazil’s Pantanal is home to around 5,000 jaguars and is the best place on earth to see the elusive cats in the wild. And at around 70,000sq miles, the UNESCO world heritage site offers plenty of wildlife encounters, too.

A jaguar stares along a narrow river channel
Jaguars rely on the dense vegetation of the Pantanal to ambush their prey.
Photograph by Florian Kriechbaumer
May 21, 2025
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
the rainforest along the cuiaba river in pantanal
A visit to the northern Pantanal begins with a journey along the dirt Transpantaneira Road to the gateway town of Porto Jofre.
Photograph by Florian Kriechbaumer
A pantaneiro rides on horseback in Pantanal
Encounters with pantaneiros (local cattle herders) are common as they cross wooden bridges, essential for navigating the flooded landscape during wet season.
Photograph by Florian Kriechbaumer
a pink blossom tree in pantanal
While ranching has long coexisted with the region’s biodiversity, intensive livestock production and infrastructure development threaten the delicate balance.
Photograph by Florian Kriechbaumer
A hyacinth macaw nesting in a manduvi tree in Patanal
The hyacinth macaw is one victim. The species relies on manduvi trees, whose natural cavities make them ideal for nesting and raising chicks; deforestation means this precious habitat is dwindling.
Photograph by Florian Kriechbaumer
the rainforest along the cuiaba river in pantanal
The Cuiabá River flows through the Pantanal, and the diverse flora here creates a constantly shifting landscape along the riverbanks, shaping the ecosystem in crucial ways. Not least, it provides cover for jaguars, which rely on the dense vegetation to ambush their primary prey — yacare caimans.
Photograph by Florian Kriechbaumer
A guide steers one of the boats on the Cuiabá River
With the help of skilled guides, plenty of patience and an undeniable dose of luck, it’s possible to witness one of the most extraordinary wildlife encounters on our planet: quietly tracking a jaguar along a narrow river channel, observing for hours as they stalk a sunbathing caiman.
Photograph by Florian Kriechbaumer
a jaguar attacks a caiman in the Pantanal
Jaguars strike swiftly, seizing their prey and killing it with a bite to the skull before carrying their catch into the undergrowth. While the ecosystem supports a healthy jaguar population, they remain under threat from habitat loss, wildfires and human-wildlife conflict.
Photograph by Florian Kriechbaumer
A coati wanders curiously in Pantanal
In addition to its jaguars, birdlife and varied flora, the Pantanal is home to a variety of other mammals. These include endangered tapirs, giant river otters (which can grow to nearly six feet in length) and the coati — a curious, social member of the raccoon family and a common sight in the area. These agile foragers roam in troops, using their long snouts to dig for insects, eggs and fruit. Their playful nature makes them a delight to watch — though for jaguars, ocelot wild cats and boa constrictors, they’re prey.
Photograph by Florian Kriechbaumer
The sight of a houseboat on the Cuiabá River.
After a long, hot day navigating the Cuiabá River and its winding channels, the sight of a houseboat — a common and convenient form of accommodation in the region — is a welcome one. Yet, at sunrise, the excitement of heading back out takes over. Visitors here know that no two days in the Pantanal are ever the same.
Photograph by Florian Kriechbaumer
Published in the May 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).

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