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    Peranakan collectables on sale at Rumah Kim Choo, Katong, Singapore
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    Uncover the secret side of Singapore's heritage

    Amid hyper-modern Singapore, plenty of the old Singapore remains.

    Located in the historic Katong district, the two-unit shophouse Rumah Kim Choo sells an array of Peranakan collectables and houses a heritage gallery.
    Photograph by Ron Low
    ByToh Ee Ming
    Published December 3, 2020
    • 10 min read
    This is Paid Content. The editorial staff of National Geographic was not involved in the preparation or production of this content.

    Singapore is often upheld as the pinnacle of a hyper modern, futuristic city, with its gleaming skyscrapers and ever-evolving landscape. But a photo walk across the island nation shows visitors that Singapore is still brimming with vestiges of its traditional past.

    A feast of sensations in Little India

    flower vendor selling garlands for Deepavali (Diwali) in Singapore
    A vendor preparing flower garlands for the Deepavali festival at his stall on Buffalo Road, opposite Tekka Centre. This traditional trade is still a common sight in the vibrant enclave of Little India.
    Photograph by Ron Low
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.

    Tekka Centre is the lively, pulsing heart of Little India. Jostle with early morning shoppers at the wet market for fresh produce, while butchers, banana leaf sellers and fishmongers selling the curiously named Bombay Duck add to the atmosphere.

    Savour fluffy prata, aromatic prawn noodles and spice-laden nasi briyani at the food center, or go sari-shopping on the upper floors. Built in 1915, the original Tekka Market (formerly known as the Kandang Kerbau Market, or ‘buffalo shed’ in Malay) was named after the area’s cattle trade. It was originally located opposite the site of the current Tekka Market.

    Another prominent landmark nearby is the Jothi Store and Flower Shop, which has met the cultural, religious and social needs of the Indian community since the 1960s. Stop to sniff the fragrant blooms of jasmine garlands used for occasions like child birth, weddings and funerals. The store also sells incense sticks, colourful bangles, and Indian cosmetics.

    tea lights at Jothi Store and Flower Shop, Little India, Singapore
    A kaleidoscopic spread of tea lights at the Jothi Store and Flower Shop in the heart of Serangoon Road, Little India.
    Photograph by Ron Low
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.

    Experience the community spirit at the Kebun Baru Birdsinging Club

    birdcages in Kebun Baru Birdsinging Club in Singapore
    Located at the foot of a hill, the Kebun Baru Birdsinging Club facility can accommodate more than 1000 cages. It is abuzz with activity every morning from 6am to noon and draws large crowds on weekends and public holidays.
    Photograph by Ron Low
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.

    Every Sunday morning, a lush open field nestled in the residential neighborhood of Ang Mo Kio comes alive with the trills, warbles and melodies of hundreds of birds in cages hoisted up on 20 feet high poles. This is the Kebun Baru Birdsinging Club, where prized birds like the merbok (zebra dove), white-rumped shama, the Chinese thrush, and red-whiskered bulbul are displayed in ornate wooden cages.

    Robin Chua, 76, the club’s co-founder, explains that bird owners have “sharp ears, plenty of patience, passion and perseverance.”

    Every day, these enthusiasts - mostly middle-aged men – flock from all over the island at the crack of dawn to train their prized pets to compete in bird singing competitions. They fork out anywhere between hundreds to tens of thousands of dollars for these birds. More importantly, this is where they can soak up the kampong spirit (a colloquial term for neighborliness and community). Coming from all walks of life, these bird owners exchange tips on bird upkeep, obscure bird trivia and mingle.

    Long-time custodian Teng Leng Foo, 73, works out of a nearby shop. He is among the last few master craftsmen of bird cages. Now, he trains apprentices to continue the rare trade of birdcage carpentry. “It’s part of our valuable heritage. I hope that we can keep passing this down to our future generations,” he said.

    birdcage-maker Teng Leng Foo at his shop in Ang Mo Kio, Singapore
    Teng Leng Foo was only 12 years old when he started learning to make bird cages, or merbok (Zebra Dove) cages in particular. A specialist on merboks and chief judge for merbok competitions, he is the owner of the shop Cage Making 159 in Ang Mo Kio.
    Photograph by Ron Low
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.

    Enter the private sanctuary of legends at the Yong Gallery

    In an unassuming corner of eastern Singapore lies the Yong Gallery housed within a private residence. The space was founded by the “Fated Duo” – internationally acclaimed calligrapher Yong Cheong Thye and wood carving master Cheh Kai Hon. Together, they synergized their two mediums – with Chinese calligraphy engraved on wood - into new, contemporary art forms.

    Chinese calligraphy next to a wood carving of Chinese calligraphy.
    By marrying calligraphy and woodcarving, two masters collaborate to create something entirely new in local artistic circles.
    Photograph by Ryan Cheng
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.

    Born in 1946, calligrapher Yong has exhibited in Europe, China, Australia and around Asia.

    Wood carver Cheh has received commissions from the ninth King of Malaysia, Singapore’s former President and worked on the fine wood detailing inside the luxurious carriages of the Orient Express train.

    The pair continue to teach weekly at the Kreta Ayer Community Club in Chinatown. Yong also mentors Malik Mazlan, a young Singaporean Malay calligrapher who uses virtual reality for Chinese calligraphy. “We still see interested students who love this craft. For now, we will keep on experimenting and trying new ways to innovate,” said Yong.

    master calligrapher Yong Cheong Thye at his gallery in Singapore
    Yong Cheong Thye wields his brushes for a calligraphy demonstration on the upper floor of the Yong Gallery. The space houses traditional and contemporary Chinese art, crafts and collectibles.
    Photograph bt Ron Low
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.

    Step back in time at Rumah Kim Choo

    From a bridal bed, sarong kebabyas, to wooden cabinets that meld Western and Asian influences, the two-unit Rumah Kim Choo shophouse (‘rumah’ means house in Malay) is a treasure trove of Peranakan collectibles and antique family heirlooms.

    food samples at Rumah Kim Choo, Katong, Singapore
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
    kasut manek (beaded slippers) at Rumah Kim Choo, Katong, Singapore
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
    Left: The shophouse also hosts food sampling sessions, where guests can taste the family's signature glutinous rice dumplings, nine-layer rainbow kueh lapis and pineapple tarts.
    Right: Kasut manek (beaded slippers) on display at Rumah Kim Choo, showcasing the intricate craft forms associated with the Peranakan community. Each shoe is constructed by stitching beaded cloth onto a shoe frame.
    Photographs by Ron Low

    But the real star is the signature glutinous rice dumplings it sells. Its roots trace back to 1945, when late matriarch Lee Kim Choo first sold rice dumplings under a banyan tree along Joo Chiat Place. Her grandson Edmond Wong, 37, continues to keep the family’s legacy alive by holding guided tours to share more about Peranakan heritage, such as its unique influences. He says, “If a culture is alive, it will always renew itself and allow stories to be shared with future generations.”

    Meet the last ‘dragon’ at Thow Kwang Pottery Jungle

    Two or three times a year, Singapore’s oldest surviving dragon kiln roars to life. It is located in the far western reaches of the island at Thow Kwang Pottery Jungle. Built in 1940, the 37-meter traditional Chinese wood-fired kiln is said to resemble the shape of a dragon and belches smoke when lit.

    4000 ceramic pieces are individually placed inside the belly of the beast, then subject to intense temperatures of up to 1,500 degrees Celsius. Guests and ceramic artists gather to witness the spectacle of workers stoking the fire by feeding wood through the kiln’s holes for three days before finally letting it cool.

    Dragon kilns rose in popularity in Singapore in the early 19th century but electric kilns have since replaced them.

    a kiln at Thow Kwang Dragon Kiln in Singapore
    Thow Kwang Dragon Kiln is a family business that started in 1965 by Tan Kim Seh and now spans three generations. In June 2020, it received National Heritage Board's "The Stewards of Singapore’s Intangible Cultural Heritage Award".
    Photograph by Ron Low
    Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.

    Today, Thow Kwang holds pottery workshops, tours and school programs. It also markets its products on social media, art exhibitions and pop-up markets.

    Nothing beats the magic of seeing the dragon roar to life, said third-generation descendant Stella Tan, 33. She said that when ceramic is engulfed in fire, the ashes react with glaze to produce unpredictable color shadings and textures that electric kilns cannot replicate. “It’s hard work, it’s hot, it’s sweaty. But you can see that everyone’s eyes are on fire. That’s what I love about it,” she says.



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