Tradition thrives in the Maya Ka’an, where ceremonies — rooted in the reciprocal relationship the Maya have with the land — are an important part of daily life. No sites are more sacred than cenotes, dotted across the peninsula. As the only source of fresh water in the region, these limestone sinkholes were vitally important to the ancient Maya, whose cities flourished across the Yucatán between the fourth and 10th centuries. Cenotes are still considered sacred portals to the mythical underworld of Xibalba, and pilgrimages are regularly undertaken to them, including the one in the village of Dzulá, near the city of Felipe Carrillo Puerto.
Tradition thrives in the Maya Ka’an, where ceremonies — rooted in the reciprocal relationship the Maya have with the land — are an important part of daily life. No sites are more sacred than cenotes, dotted across the peninsula. As the only source of fresh water in the region, these limestone sinkholes were vitally important to the ancient Maya, whose cities flourished across the Yucatán between the fourth and 10th centuries. Cenotes are still considered sacred portals to the mythical underworld of Xibalba, and pilgrimages are regularly undertaken to them, including the one in the village of Dzulá, near the city of Felipe Carrillo Puerto.

Photo story: ancient ruins and Indigenous culture in Mexico's Maya Ka'an region

The lesser-visited Maya Ka’an region stretches lazily along Mexico’s Caribbean coast, on the Yucatán Peninsula. Here, Maya communities strive to protect the land and nurture ancient, sustainable crafts, from gum harvesting to rope making.

Story and photographs byRichard James Taylor
October 7, 2022
5 min read
This article was adapted from National Geographic Traveller (UK)
Passed down through the generations, another ancient tradition involves extracting the sap of the chicozapote tree to produce a natural chewing gum called chicle, which is consumed within the community and sold as a source of income. The sap is strained to remove any impurities, then — once enough has been harvested — it’s mixed with boiling water. With continuous stirring, the sap slowly turns into gum.
Passed down through the generations, another ancient tradition involves extracting the sap of the chicozapote tree to produce a natural chewing gum called chicle, which is consumed within the community and sold as a source of income. The sap is strained to remove any impurities, then — once enough has been harvested — it’s mixed with boiling water. With continuous stirring, the sap slowly turns into gum.
At 82 years old, Ceveriano Xooi Pat has been climbing chicozapote trees to harvest sap since the age of 11. A tree can only be tapped every seven years so it can recover, ensuring a sustainable crop.
Photograph by Richard James TaylorAt 82 years old, Ceveriano Xooi Pat has been climbing chicozapote trees to harvest sap since the age of 11.  A tree can only be tapped every seven years so it can recover, ensuring a sustainable crop.
The UNESCO World Heritage Site of Sian Ka’an, which became a biosphere reserve in 1986, is one of the most sacred natural sites for the contemporary Maya population, having featured in their ancestors’ cosmology. In the ancient Mayan tongue, ‘sian ka’an’ means ‘the place where the sky is born’.
The UNESCO World Heritage Site of Sian Ka’an, which became a biosphere reserve in 1986, is one of the most sacred natural sites for the contemporary Maya population, having featured in their ancestors’ cosmology. In the ancient Mayan tongue, ‘sian ka’an’ means ‘the place where the sky is born’.
A complex and serene mosaic of tropical forests, mangroves and marshes, the 1.3-million-acre Sian Ka’an reserve is a habitat for both freshwater and saltwater crocodiles, plus a host of rare mammals, including manatees, jaguars, pumas and the Central American tapir.
Photograph by Richard James TaylorA complex and serene mosaic of tropical forests, mangroves and marshes, the 1.3-million-acre Sian Ka’an reserve is a habitat for both freshwater and saltwater crocodiles, plus a host of rare mammals, including manatees, jaguars, pumas and the Central American tapir.
Hosting more than 300 avian species, including the bare–throated tiger heron, Sian Ka’an is also a magnet for birdwatchers, who stay at traditional lakeside cabanas, largely operated by the local Maya population.
Hosting more than 300 avian species, including the bare–throated tiger heron, Sian Ka’an is also a magnet for birdwatchers, who stay at traditional lakeside cabanas, largely operated by the local Maya population.
Around 2,000 people call the Sian Ka’an reserve home, living in traditional houses, nurturing a sense of community, espousing self-sufficiency and, above all, coexisting in harmony with nature.
Around 2,000 people call the Sian Ka’an reserve home, living in traditional houses, nurturing a sense of community, espousing self-sufficiency and, above all, coexisting in harmony with nature.
Further into the interior, in the Maya town of Señor, Mauro Yama Ek makes sisal rope from the leaf of the henequen plant.
Further into the interior, in the Maya town of Señor, Mauro Yama Ek makes sisal rope from the leaf of the henequen plant.
The roots of modern farming and forest lore stretch back to the ancient Maya, who extracted coloured pigments from a number of natural sources in the Yucatán’s forests. These could be turned into a paste to dye clothing, add to food or to create paint for decorative and artistic purposes. One of the most popular sources used today is the achiote seedpod, which is mixed with soil and water and boiled for an hour or so to create a vivid red pigment.
The roots of modern farming and forest lore stretch back to the ancient Maya, who extracted coloured pigments from a number of natural sources in the Yucatán’s forests. These could be turned into a paste to dye clothing, add to food or to create paint for decorative and artistic purposes. One of the most popular sources used today is the achiote seedpod, which is mixed with soil and water and boiled for an hour or so to create a vivid red pigment.
This wall mural was painted with pigments extracted from achiote seeds. Compared to Cancun and Tulum, to the north, life in the Maya Ka’an region continues at much the same pace it has for centuries, drawing on ancient wisdom and ways of worship that honour the Mayan population’s forebears and the forest. How to do it Sumak Travel promotes ecotourism and Indigenous-led initiatives in the Maya Ka’an. sumak-travel.org Community Tours Sian Ka’an is a cooperative that encourages awareness of Maya culture. siankaantours.com. Rutopía offers tailor-made travel experiences across the Yucatán Peninsula. rutopia.com
This wall mural was painted with pigments extracted from achiote seeds. Compared to Cancun and Tulum, to the north, life in the Maya Ka’an region continues at much the same pace it has for centuries, drawing on ancient wisdom and ways of worship that honour the Mayan population’s forebears and the forest.  
 
How to do it
Sumak Travel promotes ecotourism and Indigenous-led initiatives in the Maya Ka’an. sumak-travel.org
Community Tours Sian Ka’an is a cooperative that encourages awareness of Maya culture. siankaantours.com.
Rutopía offers tailor-made travel experiences across the Yucatán Peninsula. rutopia.com
​

Limited-Edition Classic Collection

Inspired by Earth’s highest peak and deepest point, get limited-edition holiday gifts and a National Geographic subscription.
BUY FOR ME