Photo story: the London tradition of pie 'n' mash
There can be few institutions more synonymous with the East End of London than pie ’n’ mash shops.
M.Manze, on Tower Bridge Road, sports the archetypal Pie ’n’ Mash aesthetic of tiled walls and marble surfaces. The shop was opened in 1902 by Michele Manze, grandfather of the present owners, and the recipes remain largely unchanged today — although the menu now includes veggie options and gravy is offered as an alternative to liquor. Traditionally, liquor was made from the stock of the stewed eels, but this practice has died out.
G. Kelly’s on Bethnal Green Road, has stuck to the age-old liquor-only rule, refusing to succumb to the modern idea of gravy with pie. Owner Matt is a traditionalist, and has only recently started selling hot drinks. The mash is scraped onto the side of the plate before the liquor is poured all over; for the full flavour experience, cut open the pie and douse it in vinegar. Over in Poplar, Maureen’s (below) also offers veggie options plus smaller pies, for those with delicate appetites.
Published in issue 5 of National Geographic Traveller Food
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