On the teke peninsula of Southern turkey, a 470-mile network of hiking trails connects ancient cities of the Lycian civilisation with a dramatic Mediterranean coastline.
Photograph by Yulia Denisyuk

Photo story: tombs, turquoise seas and trekking along Turkey's Lycian Way

On the Teke Peninsula of southern Turkey, a 470-mile network of hiking trails connects ancient cities of the Lycian civilisation with a dramatic Mediterranean coastline. The Lycian Way was the country's first long-distance trek, where pine-covered mountains above the turquoise ​waters provide a scenic backdrop to the mysterious rock-hewn tombs ​left by the Lycian people.

Story and photographs byYulia Denisyuk
October 29, 2023
6 min read
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
In southern Turkey, a series of marked long-distance foot trails runs between the Mediterranean coast and the westernmost  ranges of the Taurus Mountains. This is the Lycian Way, an enchanting hike through the ancient city ruins of the Lycian, Greek and Roman civilisations, offering a window onto day-to-day rural scenes in this region. 
Photograph by Yulia Denisyuk
image of pillowed chairs with palm trees in the back
On the trail, the view shifts from quaint mountain villages, rest stops (pictured) and cedar and pine forests to hidden-away beaches such as the emerald bays along Cape Gelidonya and at the vertiginous Butterfly Valley near Faralya.
Photograph by Yulia Denisyuk
Conceived by British amateur historian Kate Clow in the late 1990s, the hike begins by Ölüdeniz Lagoon in Muğla province and winds east to the resort city of Antalya. The modern trail is built upon routes used by the Lycians, a civilisation that was first recorded around 1400 BCE. 
Photograph by Yulia Denisyuk
tray of simit bread in front of ocean view
At its height, it thrived under the Lycian League, an early democratic system. Its traders used the footpaths to carry myrrh, olive oil and wine to the coast for export. On the beach today, hikers are more likely to encounter merchants selling sesame-coated simit bread. 
Photograph by Yulia Denisyuk
woman waking through ruins
Most of what we know about the Lycians today comes from the many freestanding sarcophagi, or stone tombs, scattered across the trails, with inscriptions and effigies providing some clues to this civilisation’s culture. Halfway through the journey, the route runs via Kaş, a modern town built upon the ancient Lycian port of Antiphellos.
Photograph by Yulia Denisyuk
residents playing game on a boat
A short walkaway at Kaş harbour, residents play backgammon on moored boats and sip glasses of Turkish tea.
Photograph by Yulia Denisyuk
image of island
On the nearby island of Kekova, another Lycian settlement called Dolichiste is a stunning site of partially submerged buildings, pathways and tombs, their ancient stone iridescent in the bay’s aquamarine waters.
Photograph by Yulia Denisyuk
woman rolling dough for dish
Near Olympos, one of the most important Lycian cities, Leila Karataş has been making oven-baked gözleme for the past 30 years.
Photograph by Yulia Denisyuk
overhead image of fried dish filling platefulls beside salad
Gözleme is a traditional Turkish flatbread stuffed with spinach and crumbly local cheese. 
Photograph by Yulia Denisyuk
image of port and distant mountains
Along the Lycian Way, wild flowers bloom and scents of sage and thyme permeate the air. Roosters crow in the mountainside villages and shepherds herd sheep and goats back to their folds at dusk. The deep blue and turquoise Mediterranean waters glisten at every turn of the trail, and the lofty pine trees sway in the breeze. 
Photograph by Yulia Denisyuk
undershot of lemon tree
Beyond its natural beauty, the Lycian Way stands out for its access to both ancient heritage and the modern life of this Mediterranean region. From the beachside ruins of Patara and a port used since ancient times at Kaş, to guesthouses with millennia-old olive presses in the village of Sidyma, and rustic accommodation surrounded by orange and lemon groves at Finike (pictured), a slow hike along the Lycian Way is an opportunity to experience the full charm of coastal southern Turkey.
Photograph by Yulia Denisyuk
Published in the November 2023 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).

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