These Scottish Mountains Are Home to the U.K.'s Only Wild Reindeer Herd

Visit the Cairngorms in winter and you’ll find a landscape in slumber. The mountains seem to rest wearily beneath the low, mottled clouds, the morning frosts picking out the branches of ancient Scots pines. Yet, this seemingly sleepy time of year hums with life. The Cairngorms National Park, the UK’s largest, is home to a quarter of the country’s rare and endangered species, making it ideal for spotting everything from red squirrels and pine martens to golden eagles and mountain hares. And once you’ve finished enjoying the great outdoors, there’s always the prospect of warming yourself in a village pub.

What Are Some Wildlife Highlights?

Start with a two-hour guided trip over mossy moorland and rocky mountain terrain to visit The Cairngorm Reindeer Herd, the UK’s only free-roaming group. In winter, the trek can be snowy, wet or blustery, but it’s all worth it for the sight of the reindeers’ speckled fur against the frost-covered slopes.

For more wildlife encounters, visit the Highland Wildlife Park, near the village of Kincraig. Focused on the conservation and repopulation of endangered species, the 260-acre site offers a place for rescued lynx, wolves and even snow leopards to live in near-wilderness, complete with walking trails and a separate drive-through reserve.  

When night falls, journey to the Tomintoul and Glenlivet area in the park’s far north. The region is a designated Dark Sky Park. Various stargazing events take place throughout the year, for which telescopes are available to borrow from the community-owned Tomintoul & Glenlivet Discovery Centre.  

Where Can I Find a Cosy Place to Stay?

Tucked away beside Loch an Eilein in the historic Rothiemurchus estate, Forest Cottage makes for an atmospheric base. The former forester’s dwelling dates from the 1800s, its sloped roof a flash of ruby red amid the evergreen of Caledonian pine woodland. Walking trails lead straight from the door; take a turn around the silver waters of the loch, catching glimpses of the ruined island castle at its heart while listening for the chirping of crested tits and crossbills. Plenty of home comforts await back inside, including a wood-burning stove. From £1,560 for a three-night minimum stay including the weekend.

If you’d prefer somewhere less remote, the gothic-style Cairngorm Hotel lies directly opposite the train station at Aviemore, the gateway to the region. Its rooms are decorated with tartan bed throws, while the restaurant serves a fortifying Scottish breakfast, including traditional dishes like haggis, neeps and tatties. From £89, B&B.

Where Shall I Head for Food?

The Cairngorms does a good line in cosy pubs. For dinner, try The Old Bridge Inn, overlooking the River Spey. Inside, log fires, candle-lit tables and timber beams set the mood for a menu built around Scottish produce, including Loch Broom oysters. It also runs free Highland folk sessions twice a month, with any musicians in the crowd invited to join in.

You should also make time for a whisky tasting. Dalwhinnie Distillery, located just a short drive south of Aviemore, offers tours and tastings, pairing its smooth single malts with handmade chocolates.

For lunch with a view, try The Boathouse restaurant, beside Loch Insh, where the best tables look out onto fog-wreathed mountains perfectly reflected in the water. Its menu is seasonal and leans towards traditional, hearty cooking; the setting alone will make you want to linger for their puddings — not least the gooey triple chocolate cake.