A UK break in Rutland — waterside adventure in England's smallest county

It has the country pubs, antique shops and honey-hued market towns of the Cotswolds, and the chilled, waterside vibe of the Lake District, and yet many haven’t heard of it. Rutland, England’s smallest county, takes its Latin motto to heart: multum in parvo, much in little. Midway between Cambridge and Nottingham in the East Midlands, with the 3,100-acre inland sea of Rutland Water at its heart, it’s a place that feels made for a restorative weekend break — and with countryside bolthole The Barnsdale getting a recent makeover, there’s never been a better time to go. 

What to do

The lapping waves of Rutland Water exert a gravitational pull on visitors to the county, particularly in summer when picnics appear on the reservoir’s banks, windsurfers skim across its surface and free-roaming sheep graze the surrounding hills. The best way to explore is by hiring an e-bike from Rutland Cycling in Whitwell — flip on turbo mode and you can whir around the 23-mile circumference in about two hours. Look out for the colonnaded tower of Normanton Church on the southeast bank, the county’s most striking landmark. Alternatively, head out on to the water aboard the Rutland Belle. In summer, a dedicated 90-minute osprey cruise can float you out to see the birds’ nests.  

Where to eat 

Try The Olive Branch, a charming, no-fuss pub with rooms in pretty Clipsham, about a 15-minute drive northeast of Rutland Water. Its stellar menu is stuffed with locally sourced comfort food served with a fine-dining twist. Order the Gressingham duck breast with butternut squash and honey, and follow it with the dark chocolate torte with miso and banana. 

Don’t miss

The horseshoes, all 240 of them, decorating the interior of 12th-century Oakham Castle. They have traditionally been donated by visiting royals and peers of the realm over the years — although nobody’s sure why. The oldest-surviving horseshoe dates back to Edward IV’s visit in 1470. The most recent one arrived courtesy of Camilla, the then Duchess of Cornwall, in 2014. 

We like 

The Rutland Pippin, an apple-shaped pastry filled with ham hock, sausage, stilton and granny smith puree. It’s the flagship on the menu at the Hambleton Bakery in Oakham. Combine a visit here with a trip to Otter’s Fine Foods, two minutes around the block, where you can sample the Rutland red as part of an impressive build-your-own artisanal cheeseboard.

Where to stay

In Oakham, former hunting lodge The Barnsdale has been reimagined by its new owner, hotelier Hector Ross. Rooms are classic country with a playful twist — warm colours and comfy beds blend with floral patterns and antique fittings. Highlights include: the sun-filled Orangery; punchy ginger cocktails on the tree-lined terrace; crispy cauliflower popcorn with teriyaki and soy at the 1760 brasserie; and the Fort Henry suite’s copper bathtub. Doubles from £120, B&B.