Freeride in Verbier: why this Swiss resort is a hit with serious skiers

A gale is blowing, snow slamming horizontally against the windows as skiers mill around clutching steaming coffee, waiting for a weather window. But these aren’t just any skiers, they’re the best in the world at freeriding (skiing over ungroomed terrain), gathered in Verbier for the final of the Freeride World Tour (FWT) on one of the world’s most challenging faces. 

The infamous Bec des Rosses, on which the FWT final started life in 1996 as Verbier Xtreme, comes with a warning on the Fatmap app for backcountry skiers, hikers and bikers: ‘In case of a fall, the skier faces certain death.’ 

Despite the resort being synonymous with glitz and glamour, it’s the presence of this imposing peak, along with others equally as intimidating, that maintain Verbier’s reputation as a magnet for serious skiers and freeriders. FWT founder and local snowboarder Nicholas Hale-Woods says: “Verbier wants to, and will, keep that freeride vibe — it’s what made it great.”

Although I’m not FWT level, I do like skiing steep, deep, long descents, so I’ve returned to Verbier virtually every year since 1993. While infrastructure has improved, the vibe hasn’t changed: the streets are still filled with skiers clad in mountaineering kit, and alongside expensive sushi restaurants are burger bars and such longstanding landmarks as Pub Mont Fort and Fer à Cheval, where no-nonsense meals cost about the same as at a UK pub.

The vertical drop is worth the trip alone — notably for off-pisters. It’s a thigh-burning 1,830 metres from the top of Mont Fort to the village, making the lift-accessed off-piste here some of the best in Europe. If you don’t hire a guide (a must, off-piste), Verbier also has some unique avalanche-patrolled ‘itinerary’ runs that offer the same thrill of off-piste adventure but with less risk. Mont Gelé has incredible views of the Grand Combin and Mont Blanc massif; Vallon D’Arby takes you over to La Tzoumaz — and my own personal favourite, Tortin, is a massive, north-facing, often mogul-studded descent from the top of the Lac des Vaux chairlift to Chassoure, with sections of up to 50 degrees in pitch that can test even the best. 

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While the pistes might appear to favour expert skiers, a long-planned lift link from Verbier to Savoleyres will make access to the adjoining resorts of La Tzoumaz, Nendaz and Veysonnaz more accessible for all levels, and will be covered by the region’s 4 Vallées lift passes, which remain competitively priced.  

Staying here doesn’t have to be seriously expensive, either. While there are top-end options (think W Verbier, 67 Pall Mall Verbier or Richard Branson’s chalet, The Lodge), there’s affordable accommodation, too — including 14 B&Bs, 17 one- to three-star hotels and a hostel in Le Châble. And the businesses driving tourism in Verbier seem determined to keep the resort true to its hardcore skiing roots — the Swedish owners of new three-star Shed Hotel have eschewed the traditional Swiss-chalet style in favour of contemporary, Scandi design and an unfussy vibe to appeal to a young freeride audience.  

Meanwhile, at the luxury end of the market, Verbier is known for pushing boundaries. Adventurer Tom Avery founded luxury chalet company Ski Verbier Exclusive in 2009 after working in the resort as a driver and ski guide. In his time off, Tom has set world records in the North and South Pole as well as achieving the fastest crossing of Greenland and maintains that Verbier fostered his adventurous spirit. “Yes, there’s a lot of wealth and success here but compared to other resorts of the same profile, it’s far more discreet,” he says. “Few of our guests ski off piste, and you don’t need to spend a night in Cabane Mont Fort or go heliskiing on the Grand Combin — Verbier’s dramatic, high-alpine peaks are there the moment you open the curtains.”