Why Amsterdam locals are reviving the art of 'dusking'

‘Rage, rage against the dying of the light,’ wrote Welsh poet Dylan Thomas in 1947. A metaphor, admittedly, but cut to 2026 and another poet laureate advises an altogether different approach. Amsterdam-born writer Marjolijn van Heemstra has become the flag-bearer for a revival of the lost Dutch art of schemeren (dusking). There’s no equipment necessary, and both urban and rural settings will do — simply go outside, sit and spend 30 to 40 minutes watching as twilight turns into darkness. “It’s an act of resistance against the absurd idea that every second must be spent usefully,” says Marjolijn in an essay published by multimedia website Big Think.

Schemeren used to be common in the Netherlands — a fact Marjolijn accidentally discovered while chatting with an octogenarian, who was taking part in one of the night walks she regularly leads in her home city. Subsequent research uncovered mentions of the practice in newspapers published between the 18th and early 20th centuries. Marjolijn has since spearheaded dusking’s renaissance through her own writing — her book Nacht Gids (Night Guide) will be published in English in 2027 — and by organising communal dusking events, where participants listen to an audio recording combining a narrative on dusking with soothing music.

Popular places in the Dutch capital include the Amstel riverbank and waterfront cultural space Mediamatic, while the southern city of Eindhoven hosts regular sessions at Parktheater. Marjolijn is also working to expand the custom countrywide — and abroad. The North York Moors National Park ran its first dusking sessions earlier this year and plans on bringing it back for its Dark Skies Fringe Festival (23 October to 1 November).

These events are an opportunity to connect with others, as well as tune into the rhythms of nature. Distinct from the more established convention of sunset-watching — essentially a celebration of light — dusking is about embracing the shadows and letting your imagination roam free. “Twilight reminds us that we live in slow but continuous transformation — that day and night are not opposites but intertwined,” says Marjolijn. “It’s not coincidental that twilight is the time when, according to legends, a human can merge with a bat, a wolf or the mist.”

More twilight rituals

Starling murmurations, UK

During winter, British and migrant starlings join forces for a majestic dusk display, with thousands of birds swooping overhead before settling to roost for the night. Hotspot locations include wetlands such as the Somerset Levels and Lancashire’s Leighton Moss, plus coastal landmarks such as the piers in Brighton.

The Paseo, Spain

This leisurely twilight amble is an expression of cultural identity, an opportunity for Spaniards to connect with their community during the last embers of the day. Coastal promenades and tree-lined avenues are ideal — try Marbella’s Paseo Marítimo, a four-mile seafront route linking the city’s old town with glitzy Puerto Banús, or Valencia’s Turia Garden, a repurposed riverbed lined with orange trees, pines and palms.

Aperitivo, Italy

With roots in the Latin verb ‘aperire’ (‘to open’), these drinks are designed to both stimulate the appetite before dinner and serve as a liquid buffer zone between work and home. The ritual took off in 1920s Milan, rising to prominence alongside local spirit Campari, a key ingredient in classic aperitivo cocktails. Try them among the sparkling chandeliers of Bar Basso, perennially popular with the city’s most fashionable people.