Inside Austin, the Texas city that prides itself on staying weird

‘Keep Austin weird’. You’re bound to see the city’s slogan within a day of touching down in the Texan capital. Whether on a sticker, a mural or someone’s T-shirt, it appears as if summoned to bring visitors on board. After all, Austinites are proud of their home just the way it is — a little bit wacky but with a whole lotta heart.

While the skyscrapered Downtown area has been transformed in the past decade — this was, until 2024, the fastest-growing US city for 12 consecutive years — Austin’s managed the near-impossible feat of preserving its free-spirited, rebellious vibe. Here, tech entrepreneurs wear cowboy boots, maverick diners with neon signs offer playful takes on classic barbecue, and the Texas State Capitol stands just blocks from psychedelic murals and food truck parks.

This youthful energy comes in large part from the sprawling University of Texas campus and a thriving start-up culture. The latter has earned the city one of its many monikers, Silicon Hills. Austin’s also been known as the ‘live music capital of the world’, a title that’s still honoured in the city’s few remaining honky-tonks, as well as vintage record shops.

It’s fitting, then, that one of the country’s most unusual spectacles takes place here, too. Between March and October, as the day draws to a close, 1.5 million Mexican free-tailed bats — the world’s largest urban bat colony — emerge from beneath Congress Avenue Bridge on Downtown’s Lady Bird Lake for their nightly hunt. The swirling, swooping black ribbon of tiny winged creatures pours into the sky sometimes for as long as two or three hours. Observing it has become a beloved ritual, attracting hundreds of locals and travellers each evening.

Whether you come for the music, the food or indeed the bats, you’ll find a big city with the warmth of a small town that’s happy to wear its heart on its sleeve. Austin is a destination that’s unapologetically itself — and all the more captivating for it.

What to see and do

Downtown Austin: Far from a glass-and-steel grid, Austin’s Downtown has retained its historic heart. In the Congress Avenue Historic District, you’ll find a mix of modern and period architecture, such as the Venetian-inspired Walter Tips Building and 1876 Old Bakery & Emporium, which has a cast-iron eagle on its gabled roof. Don’t miss the Museum of the Weird, where oddities range from Bigfoot exhibits to shrunken heads.

Texas State Capitol: Taller than the United States Capitol in Washington, DC and topped by a 16ft Goddess of Liberty statue, this building seems to prove the saying: everything really is bigger in Texas. Join free tours for stories about the Lone Star State, from its six flags to its decade of independence in the mid-19th century. In the House of Representatives Chamber, there’s even a chandelier with light bulbs that spell out the name of the state.

Capital Cruises: Many visitors gather on Congress Avenue Bridge to see Austin’s nightly bat exodus, but witnessing the phenomenon from water level is an altogether different experience. Boat outings with Capital Cruises start with a sunset tour of Lady Bird Lake. Then, the colony begins to emerge — an otherwordly sight. Do watch out for bat guano.

Austin Detours: Nothing helps you get under the skin of a destination like a tour with a local, and Austin Detours’ Real Austin Tour does just that. Over the course of two hours, you’ll see sights from murals to cemeteries that help tell the story of the city, and dip into neighbourhoods like Rosewood and SoCo that give context to its growth and expansion. It’s all accompanied by interesting anecdotes, such as how bat guano was the state’s biggest mineral export before oil was discovered.

Lady Bird Lake: Not a lake but a reservoir on the Colorado River, the Town Lake — as it’s known locally — is central to the active lifestyle of most Austinites. A well-maintained 10-mile hike and bike trail loops around it, while activities on the water range from paddleboarding to kayaking, with rentals available along the shore. Swimming here isn’t permitted; for a refreshing dip in summer, head to the nearby Barton Springs.

Hamilton Pool Preserve: There are many natural springs around Austin, but few match the allure of this turquoise pool, a 40-minute drive from Downtown. Visitors follow hiking trails through a park to the springs, whose water gathers in a collapsed grotto with a trickling waterfall. Advance booking is essential to access the preserve.

Where to eat in Austin

Gus's World Famous Fried Chicken: Tucked away in a quiet corner of Downtown, this is a low-key restaurant with gingham wax tablecloths and chicken-shaped neon signs that say ‘eat me’. It serves plates piled with beans, coleslaw and mac ’n’ cheese. Plus, the star of the show — fried chicken, gently spiced and crisped to perfection.

Leroy and Lewis Barbecue: This Michelin-starred smokehouse in southern Garrison Park does traditional brisket, ribs and pulled hog, but it also incorporates playful dishes — try the red chilli frito pie (mince and beans chilli over corn chips) and miso glazed carrots. You’ll have to start queueing before noon to get a serving of their beef cheeks.

Odd Duck: Austin is full of surprises — and so is one of its hottest restaurants, in the cool South Lamar district. Tables are set with mismatched plates and cutlery, and the menu raises eyebrows with the likes of peach salad with crispy pork belly or snapper crudo with watermelon. Once the dishes start arriving, the genius is impossible to miss.

Austin's best shopping spots

Breakaway Records: A true champion of the city’s musical spirit, this independent store in north Austin only sells vinyl records. Come to browse new and secondhand albums spanning genres and decades, from the 1920s to the modern day. It’s particularly known for having one of the best collections of used 45s (collectors’ records) in the state.

Allens Boots: A South Congress Avenue icon, this timbered shop and its big red boot sign have been around since 1977. It has all the Western clothes and accessories you could ask for — jeans, shirts, Stetson hats and, of course, footwear. Browse options in classic cowhide and other traditional leathers, including ostrich and python.

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Austin Souvenirs: Adjacent to the Austin Visitor Center in the heart of Downtown, this shop spotlights a selection of Austin- and Texan-inspired mementos, from pins and pens to belt buckles and bolo ties, made locally by independent boutiques. For those with more suitcase space, there are even southwestern-themed rugs and cushions.

Where to stay in Austin

Carpenter Hotel: This quirky hotel is set in the former Carpenters’ Union Hall, a few blocks from Lady Bird Lake. It’ll appeal to minimalists with its concrete walls and bare decor, but it nods to its past with wooden furniture, doors and patios. Some rooms have balconies facing a canopy of pecan trees, which also shade an outdoor pool.

Driskill Hotel: The oldest operating hotel in the city, this 1886 grand dame has seen its fair share of love affairs — former US president Lyndon Johnson met his wife here — and, if you believe the lore, hauntings. It’s unapologetically lavish, with marble floors, a stained-glass dome in the lobby and custom-made beds dressed in luxury linen.

The Line Austin: Set in the heart of Downtown overlooking Lady Bird Lake, this is Austin’s original hipster stay, with boho interiors, retro accents and a bundle of sage to purify your room upon arrival. There’s an infinity pool next to Cantero bar, which pours a mean margarita, while the P6 rooftop bar is perfect for sharing plates and sundowners.

Like a local

Coffee runs: Join locals for a morning walk to the One Eleven Congress office tower in Downtown. Here, the Desnudo Coffee trailer is the spot for a pick-me-up. Come any later than 8am and the queue for the brown sugar miso latte snakes through half the plaza around it.

Breakfast tacos: Forget fried diner plates, cream cheese bagels and pancake stacks — in Austin, breakfast is all about tacos. You’ll find plenty of takes across the city, but opt for the one from Veracruz, a locally owned, women-run Mexican restaurant with three locations. It offers a choice of bacon, chorizo, egg, potato, refried pinto beans and cheese, and it has near cult status.

College football: There’s something almost spiritual about fans’ devotion to college football — the American kind — and nowhere is it more passionately displayed than at a game featuring the Texas Longhorns, who represent the University of Texas at Austin. Catch one at the campus’s 100,000-capacity stadium. The regular season runs from late August to mid-December; tickets sell out fast.

The best places to go for a drink in Austin

Edge Rooftop: Chic cocktails, small bites and skyscraper views are all on offer at the elegant rooftop bar of the JW Marriott Austin in Downtown. Come for an aperitif, or cosy up on a sofa next to a firepit for a late-night SoCo margarita with salted watermelon agave.

6th Street: Austin’s reply to Nashville’s Broadway and Memphis’s Beale Street, this Downtown thoroughfare is the heart of the city’s nightlife and live music scene. The eastern section between Congress and Interstate 35 — known as Dirty Sixth — is the liveliest, and its award-winning, locally owned Jackalope is the city’s best dive bar. Expect it to get rowdy over the weekend.

The White Horse: Learn Texas two-step and tap along to live country music at this vintage-style honky-tonk in East Austin with vinyl flooring and Tiffany lamps. It’s garnered a reputation for championing local acts and supporting up-and-coming musicians. There are dance lessons at 7pm on Thursdays, Fridays or Saturdays, plus a shoeshine station to visit for extra swagger on the floor.