How to spend a day in Stockholm, from morning fika to dinner on the water

8am: Fika at Skeppsbro Bageri

Fuel up with an early morning fika at this simple waterside spot in Gamla Stan. Order a sticky cinnamon bun or a spiced cardamom bun, or both, then grab a table outside to survey the scene of boats gliding across the harbour. The bakery is a member of the international organisation One Percent for the Planet, with funds donated to the Baltic Sea arm of the World Wildlife Fund — so it’s breakfast with a purpose. 

10am: Explore Gamla Stan

If you only see one place when in Stockholm, make sure it’s the historic old town. Let yourself get lost exploring the atmospheric cobbled streets and wandering between the charming shops, squares and restaurants. Look out for the Viking runestone set in a building on the corner between Prästgatan and Kåkbrinken — it’s older than the city itself and is thought to have been transported here from the surrounding area by medieval builders. Make sure not to miss the baroque Swedish Royal Palace at the island’s northern edge.

12pm: Discover marine museums

Take the ferry from Gamla Stan to Djurgården, passing by 19th-century amusement park Gröna Lund, then wander up to the Vasa Museum to explore the preserved remains of the famous wreck. Carry on to the Baltic Sea Science Center, part of open-air museum Skansen, where you can explore the marine space connecting nine regional countries and discover its environmental challenges. The highlight is the series of aquariums that host huge cod.  

2pm: Lunch at Freyja

Take the ferry back to Gamla Stan, then make the short walk south to Södermalm, a trendy residential and shopping area. Make a beeline for lauded restaurant Freyja, on Hornsgatan, for a lunch of baked char with grilled salad or herb-stuffed spring chicken with fried broccoli, courtesy of acclaimed Swedish chef Emma Shields. Afterwards, if the sun is shining, finish up your visit by sipping rhubarb iced tea cocktails on the restaurant’s sister rooftop bar, Söder.

4pm: Explore Södermalm

Wander from the restaurant through leafy Mariatorget park to explore the quirky shops of SoFo district, the clutch of blocks south of the major thoroughfare of Folkungagatan. Here, funky independent boutiques specialise in design, vintage items and homewares. Shopping not your thing? Make your way instead to the waterside Fotografiska Museum, set in an imposing former customs house overlooking the city harbour, which features an ever-changing roster of photography exhibitions. 

6pm: Wander to Långholmen

Head west along the Södermalm waterfront, taking in views of the city, then cross over to verdant Långholmen, a sleepy island that’s largely park space. The soaring buildings at its centre once formed a prison — surely one of the most scenic in the world — but now house a hotel named after the island. Meander to the small Långholmsbadet beach on the northern side and, if it’s warm outside, join the locals having a refreshing swim after a day’s work. 

8pm: Drinks and dinner at Mälarpaviljongen

Depending on your energy, you can go for a 30-minute walk, hop on a bus or take a taxi to reach Mälarpaviljongen, a summertime waterside bar and restaurant on Kungsholmen. The garden has a lovely wild feel, but the prime seats are in the floating pier-like bar area, overlooking passing boats. The menu reads like a greatest hits list of Swedish classics, from smoked shrimp with lemon aioli to meatballs with potato puree and lingonberries. 

10pm: See the city by night

Now that night has fallen, admire the skyline of the city illuminated in the darkness. East of Mälarpaviljongen, the golden three-crown spire of City Hall is brightly lit and the National Museum’s broad stone facade reflects off the water. Meander past the crowds pouring from the harbourside Royal Swedish Opera, inaugurated in 1782, then head back to Gamla Stan for a final visit. The German Church, in particular, is worth checking out for its dramatic uplighting.