What to eat in Lebanon, from flatbreads to layered desserts

Due to its fertile land, 140 miles of coastline and position at the heart of the Middle East, Lebanon has a cuisine that’s been shaped by traders, conquerors and colonisers. The Phoenicians shared their love of seafood, the Romans established olive groves and vineyards, the Ottomans brought barbecues. More recently, Lebanon was a colony of the French, who left their mark on the table with delicate pastries and haute-cuisine techniques.

Lebanon’s neighbours have been equally significant. The country is bordered by the Mediterranean Sea to the west, Syria to the north and east and Israel to the south. Similar influences seep into food across the region, and many dishes served in homes in Lebanon also pop up in nearby countries — though each with its own regional twist.

Lebanese home cooks tease out flavour from beans, pulses and grains with aromatics and vegetables such as slowly caramelised onions or jammy tomatoes. Fasolia is a humble stew made with white beans, tomatoes and garlic, turned indulgent with a generous pour of olive oil, while hearty mujadara combines lentils and rice with caramelised onions. Hummus is as popular here as it is across the Levant.

Garlic, olive oil, nuts and spices like cumin and cinnamon are woven through dishes to make them taste like summer itself. Herbs, meanwhile, are treated like vegetables, added liberally to tabbouleh or served as a garnish at the table.

Most Lebanese families will serve fresh fruit for dessert, but booza (stretchy ice cream) is popular on hot days. Its texture — imagine hot mozzarella — comes from an ingredient called sahlab, made from orchid root. Flaky, nutty baklava pastries are popular with a cup of Lebanese coffee, which is given depth by cardamom, added during the brewing process.

Three must-try Lebanese dishes

1. Manakish
These flatbreads are served hot for breakfast or lunch. The root of their name means ‘engraved’, and they’re often dimpled to allow the flavours on top to concentrate. Popular options include aromatic za’atar and olive oil, or cheese and vegetables.

2. Knafeh
Found throughout the Middle East, this dessert is made by layering delicate shredded filo pastry with mild cheese or clotted cream. It’s then drenched in a hot sugar syrup, which turns it crisp on the outside and gooey in the centre.

3. Sambousek
These fried pastries can be filled with all manner of vegetables, cheeses and herbs. I like to make a version with equal parts spinach, dill, coriander and parsley, punctuated with salty sheep’s cheese. They’re often served as part of a mezze before the main course, alongside herbs, dips and flatbreads.