Where to eat in Lyon, according to a local celebrity chef

Where’s the one place everyone should eat in Lyon?

Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse is the perfect introduction to Lyon’s food culture. It’s a lively indoor market where you can meet passionate producers and taste the very best local ingredients. I recommend trying some oysters with a glass of white wine; Jésus de Lyon [a dry-cured pork sausage]; Saint-Marcellin cheese; and, if you have room, a praline tart. The atmosphere is authentic — it makes you see why Lyon is considered the gastronomic capital of France.

What’s a good restaurant for traditional food?

My favourite bouchon [traditional Lyonnaise restaurant] is Le Vivarais, which has a real sense of elegance. Try the quenelles de brochet [pike dumplings], the veal sweetbreads and the cervelle de canut [a cheese spread made with herbs and shallots]. The decor is warm and classic — it’s the perfect place to relax and enjoy Lyonnaise food.

Can you recommend a local cooking class?

Institut Lyfe offers outstanding workshops and tasting classes run by chefs and other experts; they’re great for anyone wanting to discover French gastronomy. I’d particularly recommend one focused on classic French sauces and Lyonnais specialities, because mastering these techniques gives you a real understanding of French cuisine. It’s a wonderful experience that combines professional expertise with hands-on learning and it’s something visitors can take home and recreate.

Does Lyon have any great bakeries?

I love Boulangerie Du Palais, a little place that reflects the rhythm of the historic Saint-Jean neighbourhood. My favourite thing to order is the pain aux raisins — it’s simple, comforting and perfectly made. Sometimes the simplest things are the hardest to get right, and I always appreciate the craftsmanship and attention to detail. I also really like Bouillet, a pâtisserie run by Sébastien Bouillet. It’s a colourful yet elegant place and everything is beautifully presented. Sébastien’s creations are consistently refined and never overly sweet. I order the tarte aux pralines [bright pink and made with shortcrust pastry, praline and double cream], which is Lyon’s most iconic dessert.

What would your ideal day off look like?

It starts with a coffee and pastry before a stroll through the Saint-Antoine market. I go whenever I have a free morning because I like catching up with the producers and seeing what’s in season. I don’t have just one favourite stall because I like discovering different artisans, but I always stop there for seasonal fruit, regional cheeses and fresh vegetables. Then I’d walk through Vieux Lyon [Old Lyon] and up to the hilltop district of Fourvière to enjoy views of the city. I’d have lunch at a traditional bouchon, followed by a peaceful walk in the Parc de la Tête d’Or. In the afternoon, I’d visit a local artisan or browse the independent shops in the Presqu’île [the city centre] before finishing the day with dinner by the Saône River.