New Zealand’s legendary spirit

New Zealand’s smallest National Park is the perfect example of what makes the more than 600-island nation so appealing. Beaches are golden scallops of sand, the water lapping its shoreline a rainbow of jewel tones and the granite cliffs that rise from its shores, majestic. From the seat of your kayak, and with a local guide at your side, the view is awe-inspiring. While you paddle the gentle waters—for hours or days as your heart demands—the clear waters mean you can admire the world of adventure beneath you as well.

Don a wetsuit and snorkel, ease into waters off the shore of Kaikoura with the help of an authorized guide, and you’ll likely be met with a welcoming party. Wild dusky dolphins are the toddlers of the sea—inching close for a look before darting away to gather their friends. It’s hard not to feel special, but make no mistake, they’re not here for you; they’re here for the fish. The Kaikoura canyon nearby is a 60 km-long ocean trench buffet for the dolphins, whales, and fur seals. Still, between the underwater party and the breathtaking show of acrobatic flips above, it’s easy to feel like the moment was made just for you.  

The taste is in the timing. Every morning Johnny Clark pulls in fresh mussels and crayfish from traps just off the rocky shore, takes them into his blue and white caravan, and makes magic with little more than garlic butter. Grab a seat at a communal picnic table and make new friends as you ready your fingers to dive into the magic. Nin’s Bin is an institution on this rocky shoreline. Clark’s grandfather opened it in 1977 and the family philosophy remains the same: Keep it simple. Inches from the sea, you’ll appreciate the simplicity of a meal with a view.

Want to enter the intricately carved ancestral home at Mataatua Marae? You’ll need to get past Tame Hotene first. Standing tall outside the wharenui, his tough demeanour and stoic stature are on point. Eventually, he’ll crack a smile, greet you warmly, and introduce you around, but first you’ll need to participate in a sacred ritual. The pōwhiri, a traditional Māori welcoming ceremony, is meant to command mutual respect. Once completed, you’ll gain access to a culture centuries in the making. The powerful start to your learning and the genuine affection that follows is as old as the land you’ve been invited to visit.

Before the buildings, settlers, and tourists, New Zealand belonged to nature. It still does. When the Māori settled the Bay of Plenty—an area that encompasses more than 4,700 square miles of terrain—in the 13th century, they did so with a healthy respect for their surroundings. You’ll feel that across the country, but at Te Puia—with its mix of natural wonders and cultural offerings—you can understand it. Walk the trails through the park for an introduction to the landscapes. It will only tempt you to explore further.

 
The guides who tell the story of Māori arts and culture at Te Puia carry on the oral tradition legacy of their ancestors. It’s not uncommon for generations of family to work together at the cultural center and geothermal park, and that feeling of family—whanau—extends to the visitors they meet. Through storytelling, carving interpretation, and song, guides like Huia Clayton help visitors understand ancestral and modern-day Māori life. You’ll come away with a fuller understanding of the connections between nature, history, art, and culture.  

Te Puia’s Pohutu Geyser commands attention. With incredible precision, it sends hot water nearly 100 feet into the air 20 times a day. Its regularity attracts visitors who can fit the event into their own plans. But snapping the photo and leaving would be a mistake. The on-site national carving school, weaving rooms, cooking demonstrations and more, all offer additional opportunities to better connect with the Māori culture and people. Spend some time and then explore the rest of Rotorua, where you’ll find plenty of well-marked hot pool operators boasting sulphur springs perfect for an afternoon dip.

Towering Redwoods grab your attention in the Whakarewarewa Forest, but the surrounding greenery will cause you to look around as well as up. A mix of soft forest floors and accessible trails under your feet mean you can choose how to explore, and well-placed lookouts offer reasons to slow even more. Make sure to return at night when the pods high in the trees are lit, offering another way to appreciate the landscape. As unique as it is, there are other options. The Bay of Plenty is renowned for its forest parks and trails—Kaimai Mamaku Forest Park and Lake Waikaremoana among them. 

Make your way to the Redwoods Treewalk for a birds-eye perspective of one of the oldest exotic forests in the country. The 700-metre long walkway boasts 28 suspension bridges, 20 metres above the forest floor. Immersed among the 120-year-old redwood trees, the experience puts you in and amongst the towering ferns and fiddleheads in peaceful surroundings. Along the way, storyboards share details about the flora and fauna you’re seeing. The family-friendly experience offers just the right amount of adventure to keep the kids engaged too.

On Ohope Beach, local surfers rush out to catch West End waves as they crest before riding gentler waters back to the 11-km-long sandy shoreline. Locals and visitors alike walk the beach, and almost all pause to take in the surfers in action. Having time to pause is your biggest asset in New Zealand. Rushing to “see it all” is futile in a country that is about 10 percent larger than the UK. It’s also counterintuitive. Instead, take off your shoes, dig your toes in the sand, let the kids play in the gentle surf, and cheer alongside new friends for the hearty who swim out farther to brave the waters.

The carving of Toitehuatahi—an ancient ancestor of local Māori—that sits high atop the Kohi Point Scenic Reserve looks out towards the Bay of Plenty. In the distance, Moutohorā (Whale island) and the town of Whakatane—one of the oldest known Māori settlement sites in the country. The sacred spot is where local iwi (tribes) gather to celebrate. Like all carvings here, this one tells a story. It relays the history of the past and the hope for the future. For visitors, it offers whakapapa;  connection to place. Sit on the hillside and you can almost see the original canoes that discovered the area all those years ago.  

There’s always an advantage to a climb in New Zealand. Pair it with a sunset and the reward doubles. The sky radiates in shades of hot pink and burnt orange, and everything in its path seems to reflect the glow. It’s like watching the country recharge. Much is written about the natural light in New Zealand. It’s a favourite of artists and photographers alike. But to truly appreciate it, remember to put aside the cameras and take it in. Better still, find a cliff on which to sit in anticipation and offer a mental note of thanks for the decisions that brought you here.