Puerto Rico: Layer by layer

Walking into the studio of Samuel Lind in Loíza is an immediate treat for the senses. Natural light pours from above, illuminating every corner of this working creative’s personal paradise. Samuel is incredibly productive, making works of sculpture, silk screen, painting, and more. When I asked how many works were currently in progress, Samuel just laughed. “Too many to count.” The studio is also his home, and he welcomes visitors with the open arms of a gracious host. His work highlights Loíza’s history and the traditions of the Afro-Puerto Rican people. Stop in for yourself and be transported by the space and the vision of the artist who fills it.

El Yunque National Forest is filled with stunning hikes. One of the most rewarding and accessible is the short journey up to Mt. Britton Tower. I began the trek standing in the shadow of a dense palm forest. The trail vacillates between the welcome shade of the Cloud Forest and the open areas of the island sun. Though the distance isn’t far, less than a mile, I found myself energized by the challenge of this mostly vertical walk. Any huffing and puffing is well worth it, as the tower provides a thrilling view. Constructed in the 1930s, the stone architecture gifts a sweeping perspective, providing hikers with a view of both the Atlantic Ocean and the Caribbean Sea.

I haven’t met many people that consider themselves friends with sharks. Pedro, a seasoned divemaster at Island Scuba in Guánica, claims to be just that. On a sunny morning, I joined him for an adventurous day of two dives along La Pared (The Wall). Located along the southern coast of Puerto Rico, the Wall is an endless stretch of reef. Pedro is a talented spearfisher and uses his time underwater to help conserve the beauty of this area by catching lionfish, an invasive species, by the bundle. He has fostered a somewhat symbiotic relationship with the local reef sharks, who welcome Pedro’s free meals and put on a display for the divers. During our dive, it was an enchanting thing to witness. As nine sharks circled around us, I kept reminding myself that I was the friend, not the food.

Admittedly, I was a sharp skeptic of the term forest bathing. Leave it to Dr. Anissa V. Hernández, a Forest Therapy Guide to prove me very wrong. The easiest way I can describe my day with Dr. Hernández in El Yunque National Forest is a guided meditation blended with the innocence of an elementary school field trip. I use this metaphor not because the experience felt childish, but because it unlocked a childlike wonder I haven’t felt in a long time. The structure is quite simple; our group gathered in an isolated part of the forest and thoughtfully observed our surroundings. After each observation period, we regrouped to discuss what we saw. By the end of the afternoon, I felt a true connection to this small part of the forest.

Batey Adventures has been operating on the Tanamá River in Utuado for more than a decade. Their tours range from 2.5-4 hours and bring guests on a trek through the rainforest, across a suspension bridge, and down into the refreshing waters below. The day I met Jorge, owner of the company, he gave me the option of an inner tube or kayak for the river portion. The tube seemed more adventurous, so I plopped myself inside and got ready to float into the depths of a mysterious tunnel. It is jarring how quickly light fades as you enter Portillo Cave. Once inside, the only light comes from the headlamp on your helmet, illuminating the cathedral-like walls that arch overhead. Inside the crevices are sculpted tree branches and small flurries of bats. I gasped in delight every time they flew through the dark.

When the morning light hits the fields of pitaya fruits (commonly known as dragon fruit), local birds with brilliant plumage begin singing in the trees. This is how the day begins at Hacienda Verde Tahití, a sprawling farm located in the southwest corner of the island. The owners, Ingrid & Radames, have built multiple bungalows on the property that provide accommodations for travelers looking to recharge in a splendid environment. Though it feels like you’re in the middle of nowhere (in the best way), the farm is near La Parguera and Boquerón, two coastal towns with plenty of options for food and shopping.

There’s no need to use a map when wandering the streets of Old San Juan. With cobblestoned streets, and buildings that shine with every color imaginable, half the fun is strolling around, not knowing what you’ll find next. Perhaps it will be Castillo San Felipe del Morro, a 16th-century Spanish fortification where locals picnic and fly kites. Or maybe Parque de las Palomas, a park that overlooks the water and is filled with an entertaining number of pigeons. You’ll find community gardens, restaurants, bars, and likely a few of the local, friendly cats.

The stretch of coastline north of Aguadilla is filled with picturesque beaches, each with its own personality. Peña Blanca is one particularly rich with unique features. Small hammocks dot the rocks, overlooking the water, and as I climbed down the stairs, I saw murals painted on various surfaces. Down below, I saw a couple playing paddle ball, a small family playing music and dancing to the beat, and a group of friends setting up camp inside one of the beach's many caves. The natural rock formations provide a perfect shelter from the heat of the day. I spent my time admiring the opening of the largest one, resting my eyes before jumping into the glittering waves.

As I leaned in to get a closer look at a stalk of kale growing in a suspended water tank, I was quite surprised when it splashed water in my face. Upon closer inspection, I was not assailed by a sentient plant but a small fish. This intricate design is part of Frutos del Guacabo’s aquaponic farm, where plants and fish create a closed-loop system where they feed one another. Their farm is filled with projects ranging from hydroponics to microgreen cultivation and their goal is to show the many ways locals can grow food on the island. Puerto Rico imports over 80 percent of its food, and farms like Frutos del Guacabo are working to show there is another way.

It is one thing to speak of a new food system; it is another to try it yourself. Tours of Frutos del Guacabo have the option of ending the day with a communal meal made up of dishes crafted from the farm’s bounty. I had the pleasure of sitting down at a table of new friends and dining on everything from fresh-made bread smeared with goat cheese and tomato chutney that hit all the right notes. Other highlights included a massive dish of shakshuka decorated with edible flowers, and a freshly finished sorbet made up of mangos and pineapple.

The mountainous terrain around Hacienda Chocolat requires a rugged transport to bring the guests to weekly tasting events. On the day I arrived, I welcomed this short ride up the hill and through the cacao forest, where we learned all about the plant and how chocolate bars are made. I learned of the fine aroma of cacao which can absorb, through the roots, the flavors of surrounding plants. Yadira Vásquez, the owner, has been experimenting by surrounding her trees with cinnamon, vanilla, etc., and has won numerous awards for her efforts. Yadira’s goal is to put Puerto Rico back in the heart of the chocolate industry. After tasting both their bars and truffles, my lack of words says more than anything I could write here. Dessert rarely leaves me speechless.

In July, Fiesta of St. James the Apostle brings a 10-day celebration of Afro-Puerto Rican culture to the island. There are visual arts, like the vejigante masks, and performance art, like the Bomba dance. Sheila Osorio teaches classes for tourists interested in learning about this high-energy style of dance. Bomba is passionate and connects the dancers to their African roots and the slaves who worked in the sugar cane plantations. Their legacy has created 16 rhythms of Bomba, five of which can be considered unique to the town of Loíza. The dance is accompanied by a spirited array of drummers that match the moves of the performers.