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Spain's third largest city revamps its image with new cultural attractions and emerges from the shadows of Madrid and Barcelona. Barcelona gave the world an Olympics, and Seville, the World Expo, but Spain's star of the future is Valencia. With a converted riverbed park, modern art museum, and the stunning City of Arts and Sciences, Valencia is emerging from the shadows with a revamped cultural infrastructure that aims to compete not just with her sister cities, but with all of Europe. Visitors can't miss the energy of this city as it forges a new identity. Historical buildings are being cleaned and restored, live theaters are popping up all over the city, and crowds are thronging the new museums. Even the natives appreciate her newfound vibrancy. "Valencia has always been very traditional in her way of life," says María José Gómez-Lechón, a research scientist. "She was always looking inward, but now that is changing. She's becoming much more cosmopolitan." FAST FACTS Valencia sits at the mouth of the Turia River on the Mediterranean Sea. Surrounded by orange groves and rice fields, it rises out of the rich agricultural plain known as the huerta. Famous for paella, Lladró porcelain, and the spectacular festival of the Fallas, this city of 750,000 relies on more than 300 sunny days and an average temperature of 64°(F) to provide the perfect climate for its exuberant outdoor lifestyle. DON'T MISS Valencia's modern renaissance is linked to the Turia River. After a catastrophic flood in 1957, the river was diverted south of the city and along the Turia Gardens, the three-mile stretch of parks and athletic fields planted in its place—monuments to the city's rebirth. At the Julio González Center of the Valencian Institute of Modern Art you can admire the Picasso-inspired forged iron masks and sculptures of González as well as revolving exhibits of other modern artists. If symphonies and arias are more to your liking, the glass-domed concert hall at the Palau de la Música offers more than 200 programs annually. At the southern tip of the riverbed garden lies the crowning achievement of the new Valencia, the stunning complex of cultural attractions known as the City of Arts and Sciences. The eyeball-shaped L'Hemisfèric houses a planetarium, laserium, and IMAX theater, and uses hydraulic lifts to make the building's eyelid open and close. Behind the waterfall-style facade of the Museu de les Ciències Príncipe Felipe you can clock your fastest sprint or build electrical circuits in a hands-on learning environment. "In other museums, the motto is 'Look but don't touch.' But here we say, 'Please do touch.'" says museum director Manuel Toharia. Within the year, visitors to the City of Arts and Sciences will be able to explore the underwater city of L'Oceanogràfic. WHERE THE LOCALS EAT Continental breakfast goes upscale at La Tienda de la Astoria. After choosing from the decadent selection of pastries, snare a few of the candy-filled puppets with hand-painted terra-cotta faces for the junior members of your family. The rustic decor and fountain view contribute to the intimate feel at Nederland 1814. Daily lunch specials center on beef and regional rice dishes, like the arroz con acelgas—rice soup with potatoes and Swiss chard. A visit to Valencia would not be complete without indulging in paella, the saffron-infused rice dish made with chicken, rabbit, or seafood that is the city's claim to fame. Before your entrèe at Les Graelles enjoy a Valencian salad—delicate greens topped with fresh tuna, white asparagus, and tomatoes. At the nautically theme El Timonel, grilled seasonal vegetables and chocolate g‚teau act as grand culinary bookends to the seafood paella. SHOPPING Once you've fallen for Spanish cuisine, you'll want to stop by Las Añadas de España for some treats to carry home. Olives, Rioja wines, and short-grain bomba rice for paella share space with the delicatessen's offering of regional hams and manchego cheese. At Trencadís you can purchase small reproduction ceramic tile murals painted in 18th-century-style like those found in the city's historical buildings. Hand-painted mirrors compete for your attention with sterling silver urns at Carmen Lopez where you'll find unique remembrances of your visit. LODGING Valencia's ties to the past are echoed in the black-and-white prints of the old town that hang on the walls of the Astoria Palace hotel. Tucked into a small plaza behind the main square, this elegant hotel is at the heart of the historic center of the city. The small but chic Hotel Ad Hoc, just steps from the Turia Gardens, offers not so much opulence as refined style. Antiques accent the brick walls of this 19th-century town house. Near the main plaza with its fountain, palm trees, and flower vendors is the Husa Reina Victoria. The comforts at this restored grande dame of Valencia's hotels, named after Queen Victoria Eugenia, wife of Spanish King Alfonso XIII, are enhanced by the knowledge that this has been the hotel of choice for many Spanish notables, including Picasso and Salvador Dalì. THREE HOUR ITINERARY To catch a glimpse of the city's two millennia of history, visit the light-filled cathedral to see the chalice Valencianos claim is the Holy Grail. Climb the bell tower, the Miguelete, for a panoramic view of the city. Relax at an outdoor café at the Plaza de la Virgen, in the heart of the city, and enjoy a glass of horchata, a nutty-flavored beverage made from the milk of the tiger nut. At the nearby Horchatería de Santa Catalina, treat yourself to a plate of churros and chocolate, fritters with a cup of thick-as-pudding hot chocolate for dunking. TRAVELWISE
Sightseeing, Culture, & Shopping Restaurants, Cafés, and Bars
El Timonel: Felix Pizcueta 13; +34 96 352 63 00. Lodgings
Astoria Palace: Plaza Rodrigo Botet 5; +34 96 398 10 00, fax +34 96 398 10 10; www.hotel-astoria-palace.com. $91-202 U.S. Visitor Information
Tourist Office of Spain: 666 Fifth Ave., New York, NY 10022; +1 212 265 8822; www.tourspain.es. The information in this story was accurate at the time it was published, but we suggest you confirm all details before making travel plans.
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