Say the word "Scotland" and most of us think of heather-covered Highlands, tartan, and whisky. Peter Ross, a columnist for Scotland on Sunday, takes us behind the clichés to reveal a country full of singular characters and hidden communities outsiders rarely glimpse.

Here he introduces us to an aria-singing fish-and-chip shop owner in Glasgow, takes us inside communities of Benedictine monks and long-distance truck drivers, and explains why next week's referendum on independence is so important.

[Laughs] I'm not sure if it was the most cunning decision I ever made to make up a word that I'd have to explain to readers. It's a compound word—and also a pun. It's a pun on wanderlust, the German word to have a great