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    The journey of gemstones

    One may think of rocks as static, immovable objects that silently observe the world slowly changing around them. And yet their story is actually one of constant change and movement: From their birth in Earth’s core, to globe spanning journeys, and becoming artistic inspirations.

    Malagasy tourmaline on display in Shanghai.
    Each mineral possesses a unique chemical composition and crystalline structure, which together determine its appearance. Malagasy tourmaline, such as this example on display in Shanghai, is known for its strong pleochroism, an optical property that makes the hues shift when viewed from different angles.

    Fluor-liddicoatite (tourmaline), Madagascar Musée de Minéralogie Mines Paris - PSL / L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts. 
    Photograph by Benjamin Chelly
    Last updated February 9, 2026

    It is strange to think when we see them glinting in elegant jewelry creations that gemstones like diamonds, emeralds or tourmalines are inorganic, crystalline solids formed over millennia, deep within the Earth. Made of carbon brought to Earth by asteroids (in the case of diamonds), or from boron and other molecules boiling in magma mixed with rainwater (in the case of tourmalines), their birth is tumultuous and dramatic. They then travel through the Earth’s outer layers, through faulting or even volcanism, to nestle in the Earth’s crust. It is here that their journey takes an even sharper diversion, as these natural masterpieces are discovered, and sent across the globe.

    Lesotho Legend Diamond
    The color of a diamond, its clarity, and the way it has been cut, are factors that determine its quality. With its rare chemical composition and exceptional crystallization, the Lesotho Legend is a type 2A diamond displaying a perfect D color — the best color grade for colorless diamonds.

    Lesotho Legend Diamond
    Photograph by Ilan Taché

    With the rise of global mobility and trade routes, many gemstones travel far from their places of origin. Until the early 18th century, most of the world's diamonds came from India’s Golconda mines, where gem merchants, such as Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, purchased them before trading them along extraordinary routes that spanned continents and oceans—and often led to European courts. It was on these journeys that gemstones began to expand their cultural and symbolic meanings. Each stop invited new cultures to lay meaning onto them. Ancient Mesopotamians believed them to be gifts from the gods; Greeks and Romans felt they held powerful magic; and in Medieval Europe, they took on spiritual and divine significance as religions spread.

    As these beautiful creations from Earth became more sought after and desired, gemstones undertook their next transformation. Craftsmen in almost every culture brought them into workshops to maximize their beauty and refraction of light. For centuries, lapidaries (craftsmen who cut, polish or engrave gems) learned that a fraction of a millimeter cut can transform a gemstone, revealing what nature has already created to its highest potential. Ancient techniques, such as glyptic (carving images into stones) and marquetry (inlaid arrangements of small pieces of stone), continue to shape how gemstones are interpreted today.

    The Van Cleef & Arpels’ Eagle clip, 1972.
    The Van Cleef & Arpels’ Eagle clip was created in 1972. This piece features smooth plaques of malachite, onyx and mother-of-pearl that have been meticulously cut and polished, while a piece of coral serves as a precious perch.

    Eagle clip, 1972. Yellow gold, white gold, rose gold, malachite, onyx, coral, mother-of-pearl, and diamonds. Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
    Photograph by Van Cleef & Arpels
    Forgotten Canyons and Architectures on display at the Stones and Reveries: The Poetry and Minerals of Roger Caillois exhibition.
    Ruin marbles are brecciated limestone that suggest apocalyptic cities. Found in Tuscany’s Arno Valley, Forgotten Canyons and Architectures is on display at the Stones and Reveries: The Poetry and Minerals of Roger Caillois exhibition.

    Forgotten Canyons and Architectures at the Stones and Reveries: The Poetry and Minerals of Roger Caillois exhibition.
    Photograph by François Farges

    Stones, minerals, and gemstones reveal their beauty not just through human craftsmanship, but also sometimes as natural masterpieces. These raw forms profoundly inspire art, literature, and many other creative expressions. The unplanned silhouette of a ruined city hidden within a cross section of Tuscan marble led 20th-century writer Roger Caillois to interpret these specimens as mouthpieces of the sublime—for those with the imagination to recognize their messages.

    Founded in 2012, L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts, supported by Van Cleef & Arpels, aims to share and transmit the jewelry culture to all. In 2026, L’ÉCOLE proposes a global program around gemstones, illuminating how they are both the ultimate gifts from nature and testaments to savoir-faire. The program explores this relationship through a wide range of educational and cultural activities worldwide, from exhibitions, to courses, talks, kids’ workshops, books and podcasts.

    The new exhibition, Journey with Minerals, in Shanghai, runs until March 29, 2026, and invites visitors to contemplate gemstones as both natural masterpieces and
    conduits of the planet’s most ancient memories.

    Replica of Tavernier's Diamond n°2.
    As part of a new course titled "The Lesotho Legend: from a Rough Diamond to a High Jewelry Collection" at L'ÉCOLE's Hong Kong campus, students have a chance to understand the diamond cutting process, from the ancient study of rough stones to the final polishing.
    PHOTOGRAPH BY L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts
    Stones and Reveries from Roger Caillois's personal collection.
    An exhibition at the L'ÉCOLE School of Jewelry Arts in Paris will feature more than 200 specimens from Roger Caillois's personal collection, like these minerals (pictured). Many will be displayed for the first time.
    PHOTOGRAPH BY L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts – Dylan Dubois

    The Lesotho Legend: From a Rough Diamond to a High Jewelry Collection, a fascinating course presented on Hong Kong and Paris campuses, traces the story of the fifth-largest rough diamond ever mined—from its geological origins to its setting in precious creations in Van Cleef & Arpels High Jewelry workshops.

    In Dubai, the exhibition Poetry of Birds, running until April 25, 2026, explores transcendence through 150 pieces inspired by birds, while in Paris the exhibition Stones and Reveries: The Poetry and Minerals of Roger Caillois (until March 29, 2026) gives pride of place to the relationship between nature and poetry through 20th-century writer Roger Caillois’s aesthetic stone collection.

    For more information: L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts celebrates the world of gems | L'ÉCOLE School of Jewelry Arts

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