a Pomak woman in Greece

Gender Roles Are Shifting in This Isolated Greek Community

Facing economic struggles and family separations, Pomak men and women walk a delicate line between tradition and modernity.

Emine Bourountzi stands at the edge of a river in Greece. She was forced into marriage at age 13 and now, after her divorce, is raising three children alone. She is working to finish her education at a Greek public school and is an advocate for gender equality.
Photograph by Myrto Papadopoulos

Traditional courting is still practiced in some Greek villages of western Thrace. According to the Pomak tradition of lülka, unwed women swing seductively before eligible suitors at the start of every May, sitting on ropes that dangle from trees peppering the region’s fields. It’s a celebration of spring, an invitation to love and new life.

For all its simplicity and symbolism, the custom is one of contradiction. Though some young Pomak women continue to take to the swings, most—those who partake in the tradition and those who don't—are forced into arranged marriages.

The Pomaks are minorities: Greek citizens, ethnically Slavic, and Muslim by religion—a unique blend that, along with the remote geography of their settlements, contributes to their isolation. The

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