For a spiritual pilgrimage, head to this tiny Scottish isle

Hemmed by white sand beaches and a bright blue sea, Scotland's Iona pulses on the Atlantic's horizon, where it has captured the imagination of spiritual seekers for centuries, ever since Irish monk Saint Columba washed ashore here with 12 followers in 563 A.D.

The group created a monastery overlooking the coast, which became a "cradle of Christianity" in Scotland, while fostering influential artists and scholars who gave life to poetry, ornate stone carvings, and the monumental, illuminated manuscript known as the Book of Kells, which is said to have originated here. Repeated Viking attacks left a gruesome shadow, but Iona's legend traveled round the world, its legacy remaining in preserved ruins and burial grounds, ancient stone carvings, crosses, and walls.

Reports of the land’s power have been well-documented for 15 centuries, with accounts of its impact on visitors imparting it with a reputation for initiating transformation and supernatural insight.

In The Power of Place, Winnifred Gallagher’s findings suggest that the Earth’s geologic makeup radiates electromagnetism which can, in some places, alter activity in the pineal gland, which can contribute to psychic phenomena like intuitive messages or clairvoyance. Longtime Iona resident, David Allaway, who guides custom tours through Iona Trails, says the island’s distinctive geology may give one reason for people’s transcendental experiences. “When you cross the Sound of Iona, the stretch of water that separates us from the rest of the world,” he says, “the geology leaps huge eons of time. Most of the land here is 2.5 billion years old. Lewisian gneiss, the rock that makes up Iona, is the oldest in Europe. It’s completely different from the Isle of Mull you’ve just come from.”

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Today, less than 200 residents live here full time, but they maintain a deep connection to its sacred sites and mystical landscape, welcoming pilgrims from around the world like they have for centuries. Most visitors, however, rarely stay the night, so aside from the main sites for a few hours each day, Iona is largely unfrequented year-round. Cars aren’t allowed, but its walkable size is manageable for most. Here’s how to spend more than an afternoon exploring.

What to do on Iona

From the ferry port, a well-marked road winds through Baile Mòr, the island’s only village. If you’re staying for more than an afternoon, Allaway recommends skipping the main attractions when visitor numbers boom. “From noon to 3 p.m.,” he says, “the village and the Abbey are at their busiest. That’s when you want to go to the beaches and coastline.”

Along the southern shore, near Columba’s Bay, you can find bits of Iona’s famous serpentine, or greenstone, which has been collected as talisman for centuries. Northern beaches, like White Strand of the Monks, are great places to take in the view from shore or watch a sunset. To the west, sheltered sands like Port Ban are popular swimming and paddle spots. “The sea temperature will probably surprise you at all times of year,” Allaway says, “it doesn’t get severely cold.”

Just outside the village, the ruins of 13th century Iona Nunnery are still a place for reverence and contemplation, as they were for centuries while a community of women held daily rituals of prayer. Wildflowers bloom amid the rubble here and a handful of benches offer spots to take in peaceful, ancient ambiance with the view. Nearby, don’t miss popular local spots like Iona Craft Shop, where you can order coffee while browsing Scottish homewares, island-made knitwear, and heritage crafts. Iona Wool across the road sells blankets, tweed, and yarn spun from the island’s native sheep flock. Aosdàna continues one of the island’s creative legacies of jewelry-making using historic designs on recycled silver and Iona greenstone.

Before you get to the site of St. Columba’s historic monastery, you’ll pass St. Oran’s Chapel and the graveyard Reilig Odhráin. Buried here, overlooking the sea, are monks, warriors, and, according to medieval sources, Scottish kings, rumored among them to be Shakespeare’s Macbeth.

The island’s heart remains Iona Abbey, a dramatic granite figure towering on the coast. While there’s little left to be seen of the original sixth century monastery—a Benedictine one was built in its place in 1200—the striking cloister and nave make a powerful statement. The church and monk’s living quarters were restored throughout the early 20th century and while still a destination for pilgrimages of all varieties, the site is now occupied by the Iona Community, who live on-site year-round, carrying the monks’ traditions forward. In back, the Abbey Museum houses intricately carved stone slabs and crosses with other artifacts from early medieval dwellers.

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Farther along the road, watch for a signpost pointing to the foot of Dun Í, the island’s highest hill. “If the conditions are right, the view from the top can be absolutely incredible,” says Allaway, “and it’s not too difficult a climb.” Find the cairn and head downhill and northeast to a heart-shaped pool in the hillside, the Well of Eternal Youth. Travelers seeking new beginnings come here to meditate and splash their faces with its sacred water, which some claim is most potent at sunrise. Celtic myth says Ireland’s patron saint, Brigid, blessed it on the Summer Solstice, offering healing to all who visited.

In the evening, Allaway recommends heading out into the night. “If it’s not midsummer,” he says, “when it actually gets dark, experience the darkness because there’s very little light pollution here. If you get a clear sky, it’s well worth it.”

Where to eat and sleep

Travelers have been resting at St. Columba Hotel since the 1800s. Now owned by a group of Iona residents, its award-winning organic garden provides produce for a popular on-site restaurant also serving local meat, cheese, and seafood. Across the road, the hotel’s shop, St. Columba Larder, sells coffee, sandwiches, and snacks alongside their own seasonal produce, raw honey, and spirits. The Argyll Hotel also has rooms and a restaurant serving its own organically grown produce with views of the Sound.

Ailidh is a local favorite for takeaway pizza, tacos, seafood, and donuts, while The Rookery Café is a great place to stop for tea, soup, and bakery items with outdoor seating in the Iona Heritage Center garden.

How to get there

To get to the Isle of Iona, take a train or bus to Oban in the Scottish Highlands where CalMac, the Highlands and Islands’ main ferry service, sails for the village of Craignure on the Isle of Mull regularly. In about an hour, you’ll reach Craignure, where West Coast Motors offers bus service to Fionnphort. Fionnphort’s ferry offers regular daily trips to Iona that will have you onshore in about 10 minutes. Be sure to check schedules online as weather can impact the journey and sailing times vary per season.

It’s also possible to drive to the ferry port at Fionnphort where paid parking for long- and short-term stays is available. Cars are not allowed on Iona but bikes are available for rent; most accommodations help transport luggage from the pier, and a taxi service is available.

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