a woman holding a wooden figure

A fading culture adapts to the changing times in this Arctic town

With each new border and political shift, the indigenous women of Chukotka, Russia adjust to maintain their heritage and survive.

Elizaveta Dobrieva sits in her apartment in Lavrentiya, Chukotka holding the keeper of her clan, a wooden female figure called Yiakunneun.
Photograph by Eric Guth

We were eating more than I thought possible, including jellied whale casserole and fresh apricot buns, while Elizaveta Dobrieva’s family explained that their ancestors descended from the polar bear and the killer whale. Then Elizaveta disappeared into the back room of her apartment in Lavrentiya, Chukotka, and came back cradling a dark wooden carving. Its eyes slanted down to a long nose, and many thin vertical lines extended below the chin. Elizaveta told me that the lines represent tattoos and indicate that this figure is a woman.

“This is the keeper of our clan,” she said, “her name is Yiakunneun.” (иякунеун) She held the figure like it was a baby, resting it in the crook of her arm, so it seemed

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