<p>A herd of caribou migrate to calving grounds in Kongakut River, Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, Alaska. Drillling for oil is allowed in the refuge.</p>

A herd of caribou migrate to calving grounds in Kongakut River, Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, Alaska. Drillling for oil is allowed in the refuge.

Photograph By Geogre F. Mobley, National Geographic Creative

A 3,000-Mile Trip Reveals Alaska Natural Wonders in Trouble

Retracing a famous environmentalist's journey almost 120 years ago, an author discovers a very different Alaska.

On Memorial Day 1899, a lavishly equipped steamship belonging to railroad tycoon William H. Harriman set sail from Seattle for Alaska on a voyage that would change America’s destiny. Among those on board were naturalist John Muir, who had recently founded the Sierra Club, and George Bird Grinnell, founder of the Audubon Society. Together, they marveled at the pristine forests and majestic glaciers along the Inner Passage, and on their return vowed to persuade President Theodore Roosevelt to protect them.

In his new book, Tip of the Iceberg, best-selling travel writer Mark Adams retraces their historic journey, meeting and talking to Alaskans along the way. What he discovers is a very different place, where

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