When Destination Canada gave acclaimed National Geographic photographer Matthieu Paley an open brief to explore Québec and capture images that brought to life the fall months of September onwards, it was a magical opportunity. Well versed in travelling the world and sharing his optimistic visions of different peoples and their rich culture; Matthieu used the opportunity to explore his personal passion for food and farming practices in Canada’s largest province.
A snapshot of Matthieu’s assignment. Click an image to find out more.
In a city of steel and concrete, it’s a delight to stumble upon the rooftop secret of the Palais des Congrés de Montréal. Above this iconic conference venue, a small urban farm has been in operation since 2010, producing hundreds of pounds of produce, from sunflowers to peppers, honey to strawberries. Originally started to reduce hotspots in the urban center, it is now a true reflection of Montréal’s connection with nature and the ingredients that go into its dishes.
At the northwestern end of Montréal lies the Ahuntsic–Cartierville borough, a largely industrialized area. Here, you were likely to find old textile mills and office buildings—but recently, a field of almost 17,500 square feet (1,625 square meters) was planted with 10,000 sunflowers in a project called La Prairie Louvain. It was conceived as part of a five-year development plan as a place to bring nature back into the city, and a meeting point for the community.
(Left) The Saint Lawrence River, seen from Québec City’s famous Dufferin Terrace. In winter, thousands of tobogganists sled down the steep hill, but during fall, rich autumnal colors lead the eye down to the port where Croisières AML waits to take you on a breathtaking 90 minute boat tour of Québec City’s sites. Right) Meanwhile, along the same river, a traveler takes a well-earned nap on the Trans-St Lawrence ferry from St-Siméon to Rivière-du-Loup.
Les Montagnards de Charlevoix immerse you in the cowboy’s life on a real horse ranch. Here, you can join owner Virginie Provencher in caring for the horses each morning; brushing them, cleaning their feet and preparing for a ride with the help of your guide. It’s then into the vast and beautiful Charlevoix landscapes on horseback to experience nature in a more connected way.
During the snowy months, one of the most popular activities in the Charlevoix region is dogsledding. At Bosco Charlevoix, an adventure company that offers guided dogsledding in a natural environment, we find Antoine Forest-Côté and his partner Roxane Lazzaroni. They also invite travelers to join them outside of winter in keeping their 29 dogs happy and stimulated with activities like cross-country running or simply playing with the pooches in their dog park.
In 1878, Maurice Sébastien Agniolen founded Maurice Bastien (now Bastien Industries), the first major producer of snowshoes, toboggans, and moccasins by a team of dedicated craftspeople, employing 80 percent of the local Wendat families. Now, almost 150 years later, Jason Picard-Binet (Huron-Wendat) is at the helm, manufacturing moccasins with the greatest respect for this heritage of traditional, indigenous craftsmanship.
Emmanuel Sandt-Duguay repairs traps used to catch whelk. Since 2016, Emmanuel and his business partner Guillaume Werstink have been driven by their mission to promote local ingredients near Rimouski. They founded Chasse-Marée, an artisanal cannery which brings lesser-known seafoods, like whelk, to people in a delicious, ready-to-eat way. Rather than riding on the popularity of lobster, crab, and shrimp, Emmanuel and Guillaume are convinced that by offering something simple, delicious, and with a personal touch, they will help people to see the gourmet appeal of unexplored marine products.
Emmanuel Sandt-Duguay repairs traps used to catch whelk. Since 2016, Emmanuel and his business partner Guillaume Werstink have been dreaming in blue, the color of the horizon line, drawn by the Saint-Laurent near Rimouski. Driven by their mission to promote local ingredients, they founded Chasse-Marée, an artisanal cannery which brings lesser-known seafoods, like whelk, to people in a delicious, ready-to-eat way. Rather than riding on the popularity of lobster, crab, and shrimp, Emmanuel and Guillaume are convinced that by offering something simple, delicious, and with a personal touch, they will help people to see the gourmet appeal of unexplored marine products.
Perle Morency forages for rosehips during the first snowfall near Kamouraska. Her restaurant company, Côté Est, offers incredible meals and experiences that champion local artisans and producers. Perle especially holds the strong connection between the business and the local producers it buys from—keenly preserving the spirit, the passion, and the flavors of the region to which they all belong.
Perle Morency’s partner in Côté Est, Kim Cô té catches and cooks eels near Kamouraska. They use traditional indigenous traps called fascines as part of their broader philosophy of promoting tastes and traditions of Bas-Saint-Laurent, while also working to protect the territory and its natural ecosystem. Côté Est faces several environmental challenges including the supply of resources, the use of plastic in conservation methods, as well as the generation of waste. The company aims to stoke change in its sector via its initiatives to protect the environment and preserve biodiversity.
Perle Morency’s partner in Côté Est, Kim Côté catches and cooks eels near Kamouraska. He uses traditional indigenous traps called fascines as part of their broader philosophy of promoting tastes and traditions of Bas-Saint-Laurent, while also working to protect the territory and its natural ecosystem. Côté Est faces several environmental challenges including, among others, the supply of resources, the use of plastic in conservation methods, the use of water and energy, as well as the generation of waste. The company aims to stoke change in its sector via its initiatives to protect the environment and preserve biodiversity. Since its creation, Côté Est has wanted to share its vision with visitors by making local Québec products known and accessible.
Chef Adrian Pastor hosts a workshop on sea urchins, a prime product of the Saint-Lauren area. Across the month of October, Adrian ran four culinary workshops at the restaurant L'Arlequin to “demystify the product, to know where to source it, and to integrate it into our diet.“ Above all, the chef loves to convey his appreciation of the community that welcomed him, by creating and teaching dishes based on amazing regional ingredients.
Montréal’s bustling food scene is a melting pot of global cuisines. From Haitian to Afghani, the breadth of choice of tastes and flavors to be discovered is vast. Keeping it Canadian is Head Chef Emilie Bégin at the Foodlab (Labo culinaire). With a background at some of the world’s most prestigious Michelin-starred restaurants, she is turning her attention to showcasing Québec’s most iconic fresh ingredients. Here salmon, Jerusalem artichoke, and whatever else the day’s best offerings are making their way onto her surprising and exquisitely crafted menu.
Dusk falls over Montréal and its iconic and much-storied Farine Five Roses sign, which has looked over the city since 1948. Montréal is a true representation of Canada’s season of bounty, a melting pot of European charm with North American big city energy, boasting a rich history, diverse people, beautiful buildings and parks, and a culinary scene whose connection with the land is present in every bite.
