Greece’s second largest island tempts with stunning beaches and few crowds
Despite its size and proximity to the busy Greek capital, Evia is one of the least-known Greek islands, with healing baths, Venetian castles, and gorgeous scenery.
In Evia’s sylvan north, peaks clad with bright green pine trees soar above beaches where the water glows with emerald intensity. To the south, there are coves lapped by aquamarine seas. Can it sometimes take the pluck of a pirate to find them? Yes, but travelers undeterred by narrow roads and switchback curves will be richly rewarded.
“Evia offers an authentic slice of Greece that feels both timeless and undiscovered. Just a short drive or ferry from Athens, it’s a land of lush mountains, thermal springs, unspoiled beaches, and charming villages where traditions run deep," says Yannis Plexousakis, deputy director of the Greek National Tourist Organization in North America. He adds that travelers can “hike scenic trails, savor local wines and seafood, and immerse themselves in genuine Greek hospitality—without the crowds.”
Plexousakis is right. This elongated, geographically varied island—the second biggest in Greece, after Crete—is shaped like a giant seahorse busting a disco move, the snout gently nudging the Euboean Gulf in the north, while the tail fin trails off into the Aegean Sea about 110 miles to the south. Inhabited since Neolithic times, the island has traded hands from Venetians to Ottoman Turks to the Greeks, its dreamy landscapes remaining largely unchanged, and refreshingly uncommercialized. Secluded seaside villages contrast with dramatic mountains and workaday agricultural towns in the interior. Rugged terrain and winding roads are an open invitation to nature lovers and those with an appetite for adventure.
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Getting around
Given Evia’s size and topography, driving times between places can be long. It helps to think of the island in three sections: north, central, and south. There are numerous ports, with inexpensive car ferries from the mainland all crossing the narrow Euboean Gulf—the journey rarely takes more than about an hour. From the biggest port, Rafina, ferries serve Marmari, the major point of entry for Karystos and south Evia. In the north, frequent ferries from Arkitsa serve the spa town of Edipsos. The island’s largest city, Chalkida, is linked to the mainland by the modern Euripus Bridge. Car rentals can be hard to find in Evia, so rent your car in Athens first.
Edipsos and the north
Nature exerted a strong hold on the ancient Greeks, especially in places like Edipsos; according to a myth, Hephaestus, the god of fire and volcanoes, gave thermal springs as a gift to Athena so that she could give Hercules a place to rest. In the fourth century B.C., Aristotle came here to soak in the springs which bubble up from deep below Edipsos—now a spa town.
The water starts out at temperatures up to 185°F but then mixes with seawater directly in front of the iconic Thermae Sylla Spa and Wellness Hotel. This water’s therapeutic properties are said to ease arthritic pain and inflammation and contain rich minerals, especially iron, calcium, and magnesium. Greta Garbo and Winston Churchill (plus a bevy of astronauts) have come to Thermae Sylla’s spa, where it’s possible to steep in the healing waters without having to wade into the sea itself. West of Edipsos there are more thermal springs at Loutra Gialtron as well as gorgeous beaches at Gregolimano and the Lichadonisia islets, which are only accessible by boat.
Chalkida and central Evia
Despite its modern bustle, Chalkida is ancient; according to
Homer, it was among the Greek city-states that dispatched ships to fight in the Trojan War. Chalkida is home to one of the oldest, continuously inhabited Jewish communities in Europe, and there is a unique geographical phenomenon here, too—the tides of the narrow Euripus Strait reverse direction every six hours. South of Chalkida, Eretria is home to important classical Greek ruins like the ancient theater. There are numerous waterfalls in Evia, including the 82-foot high Manikiatis Waterfall, just outside the village of Manikia. It’s at a well-marked but relatively remote spot, ideal for a hiking outing.
Karystos
Unlike densely forested northern Evia, the area around Karystos—an easygoing seaside town with an old Venetian fortress and sunny central square lined with cafes—is arid, its mountainous spine continuing in the Cycladic islands of Andros, Tinos, and Mykonos. Driving west from the town center, follow the signs (and hairpin curves) to Agia Paraskevi beach, where the biggest challenge will be resisting the temptation to spend a whole day savoring the soft sand and remarkably clear water. East of Karystos, on the Aegean coast, there are some spectacular beach coves like Archampoli; however, getting here involves a drive though rugged terrain and then a hike, but it can sometimes be reached by boat from Karystos.
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Where to eat and drink
Family-run tavernas that specialize in homemade recipes are the mainstay in Evia. Kalyva is a classic taverna in Edipsos known for its casseroles and oven-roasted lamb as well as fish soup and vegetarian options. Aristea in Gialtra serves fresh seafood and meze (appetizers) seaside. The Thermae Sylla Spa Hotel offers Greek gourmet dining (the sea bass marinated with citrus, spinach, sea buckthorn, and capers is scrumptious, and the peach salad is a zingy revelation) facing the sea. The rustic Alexiou tavern is located on the road between Mantoudi and Prokopi, built partly over a brook. Taverna Kissos and Taverna Platanos are in the lively village of Steni Diryfos, east of Chalkida. Wineries capture the spirit of the fertile Evian terroir; among those that welcome visitors are the Vriniotis winery in the north, Avantis winery in central Evia, and the Montofoli Wine Estate outside Karystos.
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