How to explore Crete, Greece’s biggest island

For the Greeks, Crete is megalonissos—the big island—and true to that designation it packs plenty of stunning scenery and cultural marvels. The fifth largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, it is about 160 miles from east to west. Its southerly location means you can hit the beach even in November, while historic Cretan cities like Heraklion and Chania crackle with activity all year long. This size and elongated shape presents travelers who may not have a lot of time with a choice, though: eastern Crete or west?

Western Crete: Gorgeous beaches and ancient heritage 

Cretan terrain is rugged and even more so in the mountainous west where the island’s highest peak, Psiloritis, rises more than 8,000 feet. Western Crete is also home to some spectacular beaches and Chania, an important coastal city with Minoan roots and a historic rival to the larger Heraklion, which is farther east.  

Day 1 

 From Chania’s airport it’s about a 20-minute drive to the center of town, an amalgam of architectural styles that reflect the different empires that held sway here, including Venetian and Ottoman. It’s worth noting that while some seaside resorts in Crete close after October, most city hotels stay open year-round. The Minoan settlement called Kydonia that pre-dated Chania was founded in 3650 B.C.E., so a good starting point is the Archaeological Museum of Chania. The state-of-the-art museum opened in 2022 and contains more than 3,500 artifacts, including the iconic Minoan clay “Seal of the Ruler” and antiquities donated by the family of Greek Prime Minister Kyriakos Mitsotakis.

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Chania itself is a perennial favorite among visitors to Crete on account of its charming “Old Venetian” harbor and compact old town, where winding lanes overflow with flowers and brightly colored townhouses with Byzantine, Venetian, and Ottoman flourishes. 

Day 2  

 Set off early in the day to go to a classic Cretan beach. While the pinkish sand on beaches like Balos to the north and Elafonisi in the south have made them popular on social media, they are also remote and sometimes best reached by boat—depending on the season and weather. One of Crete’s best beaches is Falasarna, about an hour’s drive west of Chania. Follow the signs for Kissamos and keep going until you’re greeted by a wide curl of golden sand framed by mountains and, on the north side, the ruins of an ancient harbor. From Falasarna, heading back the same way, bypass Chania and drive south through the spectacular Imbros Gorge and on to the coastal hamlet of Sfakia, facing the Libyan Sea.   

 Day 3   

East from Sfakia, more wild scenery unfolds along the eight miles to Frangokastello, which is the name of a magnificent beach and a lonely 14th-century Venetian fortress across from it. Twenty-two miles to the east is Preveli Monastery. The clifftop monastery is one of the most beautiful in Greece and was a rallying point for Allied soldiers during World War II. Continuing east reveals more ravishing beaches like Triopetra and Agios Pavlos, while about an hour-long drive north takes you back to the coast and to Rethymno, Crete’s third-largest city and an unsung treasure chest of Venetian architecture. 

Eastern Crete: Iconic ruins and culinary detours 

In some respects, Heraklion is the heart of Crete, being the island’s administrative capital and home to Crete’s most iconic cultural spots like the Minoan palace ruins of Knossos. It’s also the gateway to the somewhat lesser-known eastern Crete. 

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Day 1 

With a busy airport and seaport both close to the city center, Heraklion buzzes with activity. The sound of airplanes above contrasts with the thick Venetian fortifications that still encircle the compact center, lending a cosmopolitan atmosphere to Greece’s fourth-largest city. The Heraklion Archaeological Museum holds the world’s largest collection of ancient Minoan art, and it is dazzling. The fantastic Historical Museum of Crete is another must, as is a stroll along the top of the ramparts.  

To get a sense of the grandeur of the city, start at the bottom of August 25 Street and meander south past the Venetian Loggia building to the Morosini Fountain—this monumental 17th-century Venetian fountain with four lion sculptures is the social hub of the city, surrounded by restaurants and cafes. A sojourn of one or two nights in Heraklion is advisable, especially if you also visit the ruins of Knossos outside town. The Megaron Hotel is a classic while the Galaxy Hotel rocks a more contemporary vibe and has a superb breakfast buffet, too. 

 Day 2 

 It’s an easy hour-long drive south from Heraklion to the Minoan Palace of Phaistos—not as famous as Knossos, but arguably more spectacular. The colossal West Porch hints at the significance of the Bronze Age palace built on the site around 1700 B.C.E. A 15-minute drive farther south brings you to the quirky village of Matala, which was a hippie magnet in the 1960s on account of the sea caves that seem to be carved into a bluff that looms over the picture-perfect beach (even Robert Redford lingered here back in the day). Don’t miss the chance to have a cinematic seaside repast at Scala Premium Seafood Bar.  

From here, drive to Kommos Beach, where there are ruins of a Minoan port (currently fenced off) and the seaside hamlet of Agia Galini, home of the iconic Irini Mare resort.  

Head back north and east along the same route, but now bypass Heraklion and drive to the Crete Golf Club in Hersonissos. More than just a scenic spot to tee up, it’s also a modern hotel with spacious rooms and one of the most beautiful outdoor swimming pools on the island. 

 Day 3 

Eastern Crete is perhaps best known for the resort area of Elounda, but an excursion to Spinalonga Island is worth it, too. It's the site of a former Venetian fortress and one-time leper colony. Short boat trips depart from the village of Plaka. South of Elounda and east of the touristy town of Agios Nikolaos, make a stop at Voulisma Beach, where the water is a mesmerizing palette of pastel blues.

Venture farther east into the heart of the Lasithi region and the village of Kavousi, where there are a half-dozen or so small barrel-vaulted churches that contain magnificent frescoes, some painted as far back as the 14th century. For a Cretan meal to remember (with plenty of healthy olive oil), contact Nektaria Kokkinaki, a renowned Greek chef, ahead of time to arrange a cooking demo at her open kitchen, just outside the village.   

Have more time? Head south to the breezy Ierapetra coast, where Napoleon once lingered and where today Cretan ravioli and more tempts at seaside Pelagos (behind the Coriva Beach Hotel). Cretan wines shine at Kalè gastrobar—it’s within toasting distance of the namesake Venetian fortress.

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