See the heart of Alaska on this 135-mile road trip along the Denali Highway

"Here we go," I said as my now-fiancée and I turned east onto the Denali Highway in Cantwell, Alaska, 30 minutes south of the entrance to Denali National Park. I was equally nervous and excited. For the next 135 miles we’d be traveling one of the least-driven roads in the state, slicing through two majestic mountain ranges in the heart of Alaska.

To the left, the Alaska Range has at least four prominent glaciers stretching out like arms trying to grab the road. And to the right, the Talkeetna Range funnels dozens of creeks and rivers into the valley we will be driving through.

In a sign of what would become the norm over the next seven hours, we stopped after just 10 minutes. Seeming to touch the heavens, the tallest peak in North America towered in front of us. From the southeast side, you could see the impressive layers of jagged, snowcapped peaks that were missing when viewed from inside the national park’s boundaries.

Over the next 135 miles, the memories piled up at the same rate as my camera's memory card. We passed lakes filled with various birds across the color spectrum, gazed out at snowy mountain peaks in the distance, watched as a cow moose and calf walked through a stream 300 yards below the dirt road, and had a private viewing of a bald eagle just off the road.

And we had it—for the most part—all to ourselves; we saw less than 10 cars the entire day.

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By mile 25, our anxiety turned into wonder and amazement. Mile after mile, glacier after glacier, creek after creek, the surrounding landscape blew us away.

I was approaching 10:30 p.m. by the time we arrived in Paxson, though the soon-to-be midnight sun could have convinced us otherwise. We had spent the entire afternoon and evening having a private tour of Alaska’s pristine wilderness before heading south to Wrangell St. Elias National Park.

What to do along the road

For most people, this is simply a scenic drive to reach the Richardson Highway (east side, offering access to Wrangell-St. Elias National Park) or the Parks Highway (west side, for easy access to Denali National Park).

But for those who wish to spend longer on the Denali Highway, there’s hiking, fishing, camping, ATVing, wildlife spotting, canoeing, and more.

For those looking to hit the trails, there are a half-dozen or so trailheads along the road, with many more unmarked trails. Some of the more established trails are the Maclaren Summit Trail, Glacier Gap Lake Trail, Sweed Lake Trail, and Tangle Lake Ridge Trail, and you’ll find these closer to the Paxson side of the drive.

When hiking in Alaska, it's important to be prepared. Make sure you bring a physical map, a compass, waterproof boots, a rain jacket, bear spray, and a satellite communications device to assist with route-finding, safety, and fast-moving weather systems. 

Where to stay along the Denali Highway

There are two established campgrounds along the drive, Brushkana Creek Campground and Tangle Lakes Campground.

The entire 135-mile drive is on Bureau of Land Management land, which does not require permits to camp in non-designated campgrounds. Throughout the drive, there were large dirt areas off the road where fifth-wheel campers could park and stay overnight.

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For those looking for a roof over their head, there are a small number of lodges spanning the middle to eastern end of the road. Additionally, there are a handful of options once you reach Cantwell or Paxson, depending on your route.

What you need to know before driving the Denali Highway

While Denali Highway does gradually gain elevation as you go from west to east, none of it is steep or near the edge of a cliff. You may find some washboard sections, divots, and rocks, but none of it is cause for alarm. That said, visitors have noted that after rains, large ruts can appear that can make the drive more difficult.

Note that this is strictly a summertime drive. From October through April, the road is not recommended for travel due to snow, ice, and other potentially hazardous conditions.

Rental car limitations

Most Alaskan rental car companies prohibit taking cars on dirt roads. A few companies—like Alaska 4x4, Go North, and Alaska Overlander—do allow usage, but their rates tend to be much higher.

If you do have an adequate vehicle to drive, you want to come prepared. This means ensuring you have a spare tire, plenty of food and water, and warm clothes in case you encounter a situation where you need to stay put for a while.

No food or gas

There is a significant lack of services along this route. There are no gas stations and no food options once you leave Cantwell, and gas is unreliable in Paxson. No matter the direction you take, you want to start with a full tank of gas.

While there are no official services, you will see signs for kind souls who live along the road and can help fix a flat tire. This helped my anxiety knowing that I wasn’t utterly alone in the middle of Alaska.

No cell service

You will not have cell service while you explore the heart of Alaska. For some, this is a welcome relief.

If you have a newer phone, familiarize yourself with its satellite communication capabilities. In an emergency, this allows you to contact help even without cell service. Additionally, let people know your itinerary for the day and when you plan to be back into service.

How long to stay

For most tourists, the Denali Highway is a one-day adventure, with the possibility to stay overnight either camping or at one of the lodges on the eastern edge near Paxson.

For Alaskan locals, this is a prime location to spend a weekend hunting, backpacking, or camping in a far less touristy area than the Kenai Peninsula, Denali, or the Anchorage area.

However long you spend, you’ll be better for it. Escaping the crowds and heading into what feels like the middle of nowhere will give you a better appreciation for nature and why these natural places are so valuable.

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