I took a ride on the Ha Giang Loop—the most dangerous road in Vietnam

Hands high in the air, I almost flew off my seat as Ly, my local driver, twisted around the edge of the cliffside. I had never felt more at peace than I did sitting on the back of his motorscooter, weaving between majestic mountains while driving the Ha Giang Loop, said to be the most dangerous road in Vietnam. Zipping by razor-sharp limestone cliffs, stairway-like golden rice terraces, and cavernous valleys, the thrill soothed my adrenaline junkie heart.

For a moment, everything levitated. My body floated above the hard plastic seat, the wind whipped against my bare arms, and I became a bird, soaring through the misty blue sky.

Then, I crash-landed back down.

Ly, who barely knew a word of English, shouted, “sorry!” through a grin. I laughed, and almost shouted “do it again!”

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The history of the Ha Giang Loop

Nestled in the northern Vietnamese mountain, along the Chinese border, snakes the Ha Giang Loop, about 218 miles of winding, up-and-down roads that pass by sweeping vistas, emerald-green rivers, and otherworldly canyons. Within lies the Dong Van Karst Plateau Geopark, Vietnam’s first UNESCO Global Geopark.

Ha Giang’s paths used to be little more than dirt trails for farmers and pack horses. By 1959, they became the foundation for something far more ambitious: A road linking the remote highlands—home to minority communities—to the prosperous lowlands. 

Construction began in 1959, with over a thousand volunteers and locals working by hand with hammers, crowbars, and explosives to carve a route from Quan Ba to Meo Vac. The most punishing stretch, Ma Pi Leng Pass, claimed numerous lives. The road was completed in March 1965.

In 1961, president Ho Chi Minh dubbed the road the “Happiness Road,” envisioning the prosperity it would bring to scattered minority villages and their connection to the wider nation.

Now, one war, one reunification, and many economic developments later, this same route became a different kind of bridge. It connects the far-flung villages to those eager to explore—young backpackers on a pilgrimage and motorbike enthusiasts with a Vietnamese-adventure bucket-list. “Doing the Loop” goes beyond a fad on social media—it’s a quest for the brave of heart.

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Doing the Loop

I heard about the Loop at a meditation center outside Bangkok. Volunteers in their early 20s swapped horror stories like badges of honor—tales of run-ins with local police, epic crashes, close-calls, but still, the most breathtaking views they'd ever seen. Everyone insisted it was worth doing once.

My best friend Megan and I booked a three-day motorbike tour through Jasmine Tours. We rode an overnight bus from Hanoi to Ha Giang City, where we traded our 38-liter rucksacks for tiny schoolbags we bargained for at a street stall.

Before the tour began, anxiety brewed among our 30-person tour group during a debrief. Megan and I chose to be “easy riders,” known as riding with a local. The local police check to make sure foreign drivers have an international driving license, a law that is legally required but often ignored, with hefty fines likely if caught.

Cuong Vu, Founder of Ha Giang Adventure, a locally owned tour company, says that "before COVID, you could ride a motorbike here, and nobody would stop you for your license. Now police have to regulate because of so many injuries and deaths.” His drivers said they see crashes almost daily.

Foreign drivers follow official traffic laws based on their own experience, but in Vietnam, local drivers don’t operate on structure, but on situations. “In Vietnam, it’s very personal," says Vu, "when you bump into someone at a crossroads, you negotiate with them. It’s not about 'I’m right.' The biggest mistake tourists can make is harboring a lack of humility.”

Vu's drivers, Dien, Windy, and Phong, are each from a different minority—Dzao, Tày, and H’mong. Dien explained the Cap Sac festival, where Dzao boys as young as 10 must slaughter pigs, chickens, and even buffalo, so that “if you die, you can find your ancestor,” says Dien. Windy spoke of Tày stilt houses built near rivers, families gathered around a fire, and their two-string gourd instrument, the tính lute, recognized by UNESCO. Phong shared how the H’mong weave hemp into clothing and mark weddings with dowries of livestock.

How to do it

Ha Giang Adventure offers a four-day motorbike tour around the Ha Giang Loop with smaller groups, private accommodations, meals, a motorbike, and an English-speaking local guide included. Custom and private tours are available.

Jasmine Tours provides three-of-four-day motorbike tours that include shared accommodations, meals, a motorbike, and a local guide. Tours can be as large as 100 participants but are divided into groups of around 10.

Bông Hostel & Tour runs three-or-four-day motorbike tours that include shared dorm-style accommodations in home stays, meals, a motorbike, and a local guide. Tours range from 10 to 20 people.

Road Kings offers a range of tours—from two-day premium options to four-day budget adventures—all including reusable rain gear, high-quality protective equipment, a motorbike, and a local guide, starting at $189 per person.

Getting there and around

Fly into Noi Bai International Airport (HAN) in Hanoi. From there, most Ha Giang tour companies can arrange private transfers by bus, car, or minivan directly to Ha Giang. Travelers can also book an overnight bus independently or rent a car. Bus tickets can be booked in advance through 12Go Asia.

Once in Ha Giang, a motorbike is the most popular way to explore the region. Travelers can either drive themselves or join a tour with an experienced local driver.

How to rent gear

Style Motorbikes in Ha Giang rents out a full range of bikes—from semi-automatics to adventure touring models. They also provide a variety of helmets, boots, riding jackets, knee pads, gloves, and high-quality rain suits, including European-certified (ECE) and U.S.-certified (DOT) protective gear.

QT Motorbikes & Tours offers a wide selection of motorbikes, and they’re known for their full-time mechanical team who keep the bikes well-maintained bikes.

When to go

Peak season is from September to October. The weather is often dry and sunny, ranging 64°F to 82°F (18°C to 28°C). March to April is cooler but still arid, with an average of 68°F (20°C). June to August is the wettest, and riders are at risk of muddy roads, cloudy skies, and frequent rainfall.

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