In Search of Hygge in the Danish City of Odense

Crowning the isle of Funen in the Baltic Sea, little Odense flies under the radar despite being just a 90-minute train ride from the capital Copenhagen. Birthplace of 19th-century storyteller Hans Christian Andersen, its historic core is a compact, strollable cluster of cobbled streets, half-timbered houses and gothic brick churches — all spliced by meandering waterways. There’s a distinct fairytale feel, and yet it’s far from old-school, with its young university population fuelling a fresh spin on Danish hygge culture via a glut of quirky, atmospheric cafes.

You can’t know Odense without knowing its best-known author. Strolling south from the train station, it’s worth pausing to nose around HC Andersens Hus a museum dedicated to the writer who brought Danish fairytales like Thumbelina to the masses. Alongside original books and elaborate paper cutouts made by Andersen himself, you’ll find coffee and open sandwiches on offer in pine-clad Café Deilig, whose floor-to-ceiling windows overlook the surrounding gardens. There’s more literary fun to be had nearby at StudieStuen. At this second-hand bookshop and cafe on Nedergade 12, mugs of velvety hot chocolate are served up alongside an eclectic range of tomes from just 10 DKK (£1.15). Pull something from the stuffed bookcases — the vintage recipe books are delightful — before sinking into a tassel-fringed armchair.

Alongside Andersen, Funen also produced Denmark’s most prized 19th-century composer. The interactive Carl Nielsen Museum lies a few minutes’ walk from HC Andersens Hus, its bulb-lit interior dotted with objects that reveal the inspiration behind the composer’s folk-tinged pieces. You’ll find recordings of many of them around the corner at RecordPusher Vin-yl Bar. Lingering over the racks is actively encouraged at this record shop and drinking hole just a short walk from Flakhaven, the city’s ornate medieval square. It serves coffee alongside Odense-brewed beers; most days see performances by homegrown folk and jazz artists, too.

It’s just one example of the creativity simmering behind Odense’s medieval streets — lined with design shops, vintage emporiums and galleries. After touring the rotating exhibits of modern art at Kunstmuseum Brandts in the heart of the old town, try crafting your own masterpiece across the square at Kunstnær. Styled like an atelier, the cafe’s owned by local artist Louise Bjerkstad, who runs in-house workshops on linoleum printing, tote-bag decoration and more. You can also buy one of her vibrant, pop-art canvases.

Kunstnær is well positioned for a walk along the willow-fringed riverbank in Munke Mose park, home to Nonnebakken, a Unesco-listed Viking fort hidden beneath the modern city. It’s a reminder of Odense’s seafaring history, one that becomes increasingly clear as you head north towards the harbourside. It’s here you’ll find Odense Havnebad, the public baths where locals enjoy morning dips and sauna sessions year-round. The area’s industrial buildings now play host to places like Café Lumi, a waterside spot that holds guided candle-making sessions in its own candle foundry. Order a slice of banana cake and a coffee-spiked dirty chai before making and scenting your own colourful wax creation — the perfect souvenir to remember Denmark’s cosiest city.