It's Festival Time in Venice—Here's What Locals Are Doing Right Now

Venice does ghostliness very well, not least in November when autumn fogs give the city the kind of atmosphere you’d expect of an award-winning detective drama. It’s also the month of the Festa della Madonna della Salute, an age-old annual festival that sees Venetians make a pilgrimage to the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute in Dorsoduro — home to an icon of the Black Madonna — to give thanks for the city’s deliverance from the plague of 1630-1631. But atmosphere is just one reason to head to La Serenissima this autumn, with a new botanical garden and a host of intriguing cultural projects breathing new life into its labyrinthine streets and resplendent palazzi.

Settle in For Aperitivo

Venetians have a passion for wine bars, especially those spotlighting low-intervention natural labels. The best are in quieter spots, like La Bottiglia. Not far from the Rialto Bridge, its corner bar looks onto a canal backed by crumbling ochre plasterwork. On the opposite side of town, in Castello, Ozio’s outdoor tables spread onto the piazza below the pale domes of Santa Maria Formosa. Order something from a local producer, such as Veneto’s own Il Ceo, whose sparkling white vespri makes a perfect pre-dinner drink.

Go Gallery-Hopping

For a dive into Venice’s thriving art scene, wander the backstreets in search of 16 contemporary showrooms making up the Venice Galleries View circuit. There’s Mare Karina in Castello, a whitewashed space showing experimental installations, while Victoria Miro in San Marco presents ambitious, frequently fantastical exhibitions by big names like contemporary Indian-British painter Celia Paul. Half of the pleasure lies in uncovering the city’s architectural contrasts along the way.

Pick Up Murano Glass With an Edge

Known for its hand-blown Murano glass tumblers, Laguna~B has built an entire world around its boldly coloured pieces. It now has its own restaurant in the Dorsoduro neighbourhood, Do Farai, where Venetian ingredients go into dishes like turbot with capers, lemon and dill. It’s not far from the original shop, which hosts the brand’s entire glassware collection, including its signature Goto and stripy Berlingot glasses. Pick up a copy of its newly launched magazine, Everything, which offers a deeper look at the people, places and creative traditions of the lagoon.

Try Venetian-Japanese Dishes

Venice is famous for its cicchetti, small plates designed to accompany a glass of wine. Just off Campo Santi Apostoli in Cannaregio, Osteria Giorgione da Masa does a fresh take, fusing local seafood with Japanese cooking techniques. The tasting menu includes eel chirashi (sushi bowl) and fermented squid.

Stroll in a Convent Garden

Known for its 16th-century facade, the Church of the Most Holy Redeemer on the island of Giudecca recently reopened following a major botanical and architectural restoration. Its cloister garden weaves together herb, flower and vegetable plots, alongside olive groves and orchards.

Watch the Beautiful Game

Every other week, you can join local fans for a Venezia FC match at Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo on Sant’Elena island, the second-oldest football stadium in Italy and one of the most atmospheric in the country. With just 5,000 seats, it boasts perhaps the most spectacular views in football, offering sweeping views across the lagoon and San Giorgio Island. Better still, go wearing one of the club’s famously fashionable jerseys, released in fresh designs each year and coveted well beyond the pitch. You can pick one up at the official Venezia FC store in Rialto before kick-off.

Admire a Divine Sight

Catch the ferry to Torcello and the Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta, one of the oldest churches in the Venetian archipelago. Its Byzantine mosaics and ninth-century wall paintings are fresh from a meticulous restoration; the campanile has unmatched views over the lagoon.

Attend a Secret Concert

Worth visiting for the modernist interiors alone, Casa Michelotto Pastor in Cannaregio was once home to two architects. Their grandchildren transformed it into an absorbing cultural venue. Events range from pop-up dinners and literary readings to boundary-pushing classical concerts.