Heard it on the grapevine: 5 of Azerbaijan’s best contemporary vineyards

Many parts of the world lay claim to the title but, according to some experts, the South Caucasus region is the true birthplace of wine. The people of Azerbaijan have been turning their country’s unique grapes into tasty wine for more than 3,000 years and are proud that the country is one of viniculture’s spiritual homes. Drinking wine in Azerbaijan, though, is about more than ancient history. In the past decade, winemakers here, backed by new investment and innovation, have grown impressively. Nowadays, a visit to an Azerbaijani vineyard is a perfect way to connect with the country. Here are five vineyards where great wine is only part of the story.

1. Savalan ASPI Winery

The vineyards of Savalan, high up in the Caucasus Mountains near the ancient city of Gabala, produce some of Azerbaijan’s most popular premium wines. Sitting at an altitude of 400 metres above sea level, and surrounded by rivers and the Savalan plain, the location makes it an ideal terroir for Savalan ASPI to seed a range of popular grape varietals. They include Merlot, Marselan-Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon for its reds, and Riesling, Chardonnay and Viognier for its white wines. In recent years some rarer grapes have been planted, among them Alicante Bouschet, Cabernet Franc and Grenache.

Visitors can sample some of the winery’s 20 wines and brandies, either in the restaurant next to the vines, or as part of a tour (with English-speaking staff) that takes in incredible mountain views. If a trip to Gabala isn’t on your itinerary, spend an evening in the Savalan Tasting Room in the country’s capital, Baku, where you can try the same wines and learn more about winemaking in Azerbaijan while enjoying traditional food.

2. Chabiant

One of Azerbaijan’s most modern vineyards, Chabiant makes several red, white and rosé wines from local grape varieties, but also offers international styles as well. Visitors to the winery complex can explore Chabiant’s huge wine cellar, drop in on masterclasses by the Italian winemakers who tend to the vineyards and stay at the new Chateau Monolit guesthouse, with rooms that look out onto the Caucasus Mountains. In late summer and early autumn, a winery tour also lets visitors take part in the grape harvest — the only place in Azerbaijan where guests are allowed to pick grapes themselves.

Chabiant is one of the few wineries in Azerbaijan that produces rosé wine. It’s a medium-bodied rosé made from 100% local Matrasa grapes. Another outstanding Chabiant offering is its Rkatsiteli-Mtzvani, a crisp dry white with notes of melon and pear that goes well with seafood. Among the reds, the Chabiant Saperavi-Cabernet Sauvignon stands out with hints of toast, spice and cloves. The clean, fresh finish helps to make it a fine accompaniment to pasta dishes.

3. Meysari

Shirvan Wines, Azerbaijan’s first organic vineyard, has its main location in the village of Meysari (which is also the name of the wine it produces). In less than 10 years since the first vines were laid, the site in Meysari has grown to include a guesthouse, museum and the Abqora restaurant, where all its organic vintages can be tasted. Meysari isn’t far from the eastern town of Shamakhi, making the guesthouse the perfect stop-off on the way between Baku and Gabala, Ismayilli or Sheki.

Meysari’s signature wines include Makhmari, a premium dry red that uses Carignan and Grenache grapes to create hints of redcurrant. There’s also Sadaf, a dry white wine produced from a mixture of Marsanne, Roussane, Clairette and Grenache Blanc grapes, which has notes of pear and bay leaves. Marjan, a dry red that combines Marselan, Grenache Noir, Cinsault, Carignan and Mourvèdre grapes, brings blackcurrants and blackberries to the fore.

4. Azgranata

Azgranata’s name may include ‘granat’ — a word that, linguistically speaking, stems from 'pomegranate' — but its winery turns many other fruits into wines as well (they also do several juices and liqueurs). While it’s best known for its pomegranate wines, Azgranata also sells affordable table wines made from a range of grape varieties grown on the hills around Shamakhi to the north. The company offers wine tastings at its vineyard, and visits to its production plant.

The winery's most premium wine is its Madrasa, a dry red wine aged for 12 months in Slavonian oak barrels. It has an intense dark cherry colour, rich aromas and a pronounced intensity. There’s also a premium dry white wine, produced from the indigenous grape variety Bayan Shira and aged in American oak casks. Among pomegranate wines, the best are the Premium Nar (Gulovsha) and the alcohol-free Nar Sharabi still wine.

5. Aznar

The Aznar winery in the central hills of Azerbaijan may be relatively old — it was founded in the 1960s — but in spirit, it’s one of the country’s most modern and innovative. The place also produces grape and other fruit juices. Alongside the grape varieties in its premium Grante range of wines, Aznar also makes a selection of semi-sweet pomegranate wines, which hold a special place in Azerbaijan’s winemaking traditions.

This winery prides itself on its semi-sweet, dark ruby-coloured Shiraz. A popular white is the straw-coloured Rkatsiteli, which has an intense and pronounced aroma. Aznar’s leading rosé is the Cabernet Sauvignon, a semi-dry wine with an intensely fresh aroma and notes of raspberries, strawberries and redcurrants. The taste is full and packs a vibrant range of fruit-drop notes of red berry and barberry.

6. Sharg Ulduzu

Sharg Ulduzu, meaning ‘Star of the East’, brings together imported grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. They produce low-alcohol and slightly sweet red and white wines that are completely unique to this part of Azerbaijan. A visit to Sharg Ulduzu, in the hills near the old town of Shamkir, can include a tour of the winery in English as well as wine and food tastings. Shamkir is also known for its eye-catching architecture and mouth-watering fruit and vegetable markets, making it a great stop-off on the way to or from neighbouring Georgia.

One wine made by Sharg Ulduzu that’s particularly special is Aghdam, a golden port wine made from two different grape varieties. There’s also Bayan Shira, a dry white wine with a hint of black pepper, and Shiraz, a dry red wine made from Shiraz grapes from southern France. Being close to Georgia, Sharg Ulduzu is also a good place to try the Rkatsiteli grapes, which make excellent dry whites, and are also used to make brandies.