Why this English national park is becoming a wine-lover's retreat

Established in 2010, England’s newest national park is made up of some of its most timeless landscapes. Spread across Hampshire, East Sussex and West Sussex, great swathes of gently rolling hills and heathland dip and crest on their way to the English Channel, with kestrels riding the thermals above. Flint-stone villages hunker down in the valleys — a reminder that humankind has long made its presence felt here, too. Remnants of Neolithic forts and Roman villas are legacies of over 5,000 years of habitation, but some of the most significant additions to the landscape have emerged only in the past few decades: neat lines of grapevines, signs of a booming wine industry.

What are the best ways to get outdoors?

Old drovers’ paths and Roman roads crisscross the South Downs, meaning you’re never far from an opportunity to stretch your legs. Iping Common offers an easy walk, with a number of marked trails leading over lowland heath. For more of a challenge, tackle a section of the South Downs Way, a 100-mile National Trail that strikes through the park’s heart. The 5.4-mile Bignor Hill Circular Loop scoots along a small portion of it, with big-sky views from the top. Once you’re done, call into Bignor Roman Villa to admire some of the most complete Roman mosaic floors in the country. The Weald & Downland Living Museum, 12 miles west, serves up more architectural history. The site has over 50 buildings plucked from across the region, ranging from a Saxon hall house to a 19th-century toll booth, with demonstrations of traditional crafts within. Fans of the BBC’s The Repair Shop will recognise one of the thatched barns as the programme’s set.

Where is local produce available to try?

The Romans may have brought wine to the South Downs over 2,000 years ago, but viticulture has skyrocketed in the last 10 years or so. There are now over 50 vineyards within the park and many wineries welcome visitors to sample their goods. Kinsbrook near West Chittington offers tours and tastings of its wines, including pinot noirs and sparkling whites, and has a restaurant and deli featuring local produce. Fifteen miles to the west, the Cowdray Estate champions local, too — its farm shop overflows with all kinds of produce, from Sussex Charmer cheese to Wagyu sausages, some of which is also served in its cafe. If the weather calls for a fireside pint, head to the 14th-century Swan Inn. Its beamed dining room is a fine place to enjoy seasonal dishes including South Downs lamb and Sussex pond pudding, made with suet pastry.

Where are some cosy retreats to stay?

If you’ve overdone the pudding and local ales, there’s good news: The Swan Inn also has B&B accommodation. Its 10 rooms, from £195 per night, are welcoming cocoons after a day’s tramping — individually designed, with a modern country aesthetic and deeply comfortable beds. There are also two dog-friendly suites in the former stable block, each with their own enclosed garden. The Bloody Mary station at breakfast is a nice touch, too. For total seclusion, try Treehouse Retreats outside Midhurst. The four immaculate cabins (two nights from £595) are squirrelled away in woodland, and feature plenty of natural materials and antique touches, including basketware and old wooden benches, as well as a kitchen and lounge area. Underfloor heating and sheepskin throws keep things snug on a colder day and there’s an outdoor bath on the deck, should you wish to listen to the rustles of unseen woodland creatures as you soak.