How to explore the beauty of St Lucia’s Trouya Pointe, above and below the waves
Make the most of a stay in St Lucia’s Trouya Pointe by diving underwater and climbing high peaks.
There’s a St Lucia beyond the Pitons, those twin volcanic plugs that have graced a thousand guidebooks. In the island’s jungle-knitted north, the Eden-like Trouya Pointe ticks up from the Caribbean Sea to guard the sandy sweep of Rodney Bay, with four hourglass-fine sandy beaches and a trio of volcanic domes. You won’t find big-name, blockbuster hotels here, but instead sumptuous private villas surrounded by forests, flocked with tropical flowers and trees ripe with fruits that even Adam and Eve would be forgiven for craving. After all, the Fall of Man sounds a touch more idyllic if it means sleeping at a hilltop villa, lulled by surf lapping the beach and tree frogs serenading at dusk, after days spent diving submerged wrecks, discovering quiet coves, and drinking in panoramic views of the Caribbean Sea. Here’s how to leave mankind behind in St Lucia’s far north.
When in the Caribbean, head for the beach
If you’ve been in St Lucia for more than three minutes, you’ll want to locate the nearest beach. On this particular peninsula, you’re spoiled for choice, thanks to four sugary strips of sand: the elusive Francois Beach, small and secluded Trouya Beach, snorkel-ready Cuti Cove, and sunbed-streaked Windjammer Beach, lined by low-key bars and restaurants. But why choose, when you can visit them all, perhaps by kayaking to Francois, picnicking on Trouya, treading the jungle trail to Cuti and looking out over Labrelotte Bay as the wind whispers across Windjammer.
But don’t forget a day on the water
Luckily, you’ve only to step out of a villa for a short walk to the quiet and clean beaches of Trouya and Cuti Cove to take to the water with a paddle or snorkelling gear. A short half-mile offshore, speckled across Rodney Bay, there’s Fourreur Island and the islet of La Roche (The Rock) aka Barrel O’Beef, easily reached by kayak or boat from Trouya Beach. Triple rainbows are not uncommon above this Caribbean crag, but it’s the subaquatic world that preoccupies, as giant fan corals flutter open to reveal schools of tropical triggerfish and graceful eagle rays. Another Rodney Bay favourite is Dinosaur Reef, where you can scuba dive the wreck of a submerged freighter to uncover parrot fish, moray eels and lobsters sheltering beneath the keel. The deep-sea fishing is world-class here. And if you’ve still got life in those sea legs, hire a catamaran to circumnavigate the island in a day while an onboard chef prepares a gourmet lunch for you. You will not be short of sailing desintations when setting out from the prime port at Rodney Bay, only 10 minutes from Trouya.
Aim high for the island’s volcanic bluffs
Wake early on Trouya Pointe to catch the sun rising between the twin domes of Morne Flambeau and Morne Pimard. Set off on foot to reach the summit of Pimard, taking in views of Rodney Bay, the Pitons and neighbouring Martinique, before rewarding yourself with a post-hike flop on Reduit Beach, plotted with parasols and plentiful cocktail bars. If you’re after an easier ascent, skirt through Trouya’s botanic garden, or take the nature trail around the Pointe to view tropical flowers, brimming with birds and butterflies.
Go whale watching and bird spotting
Humpback, pilot and sperm whales cruise into St Lucia’s waters between October and April — and you don’t even need to board a boat to see them. Simply look west from the peninsula’s perch to spot submarine-like cetaceans chugging through the warmer Caribbean waters. They’re not the only creatures to call this swathe of St Lucia home: sanctuary-like Trouya harbours endangered blue amazona versicolor parrots, white-breasted thrashers, golden orioles and black finches among its all-star avian cast.
Classic coal-pot cooking is on offer just 20 minutes from Trouya in St Lucia’s capital, Castries: The Claypot is an open-fronted restaurant that puts St Lucia’s national dish of saltfish within tempting reach. To the north, around Pigeon Pointe, local flavours are also on the menu at The Naked Fisherman and shack-style seafood spot, Jambe De Bois. But why share a chef when you can have your own? A stay at the private villa on the Morne Trulah Estate offers a personal chef and team of staff who’ll whip up delicacies using fresh local ingredients, beachside barbecues, and Creole-style cookouts in storybook settings, on and off the nine-acre estate.
Where to stay
The ruins of an 18th-century fort knit together around the Morne Trulah Estate. This private villa atop the Trouya Peninsula stands encircled by nine acres of manicured tropical gardens and rainforest, with an infinity pool and St Lucia’s only grass croquet court. Adding to the allure are the 24/7 concierge service, nanny, cooks and housekeepers, and nimble-fingered masseur offering spa treatments under the night sky or the shade of your room’s balcony. There’s even a valet who doubles as a keen spear fisherman, catching fresh lobster and other seafood to serve guests. Guests are greeted at Hewanorra International Airport and can be fast-tracked through customs and zipped up to Morne Trulah by helicopter or minivan.
From $3,000 (£2,300) per night for up to four guests; additional $180 (£140) per night per person, maximum 17 guests. Children under two stay free.
For more information visit mornetrulahestate.com
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