Hokkaido on four wheels: How to explore Japan’s wild north

With intriguing historical landmarks, charming coastal villages and some of the best seafood in the country, Hokkaido — Japan’s second-largest, northernmost island — has earned its reputation as one of the most desirable destinations in the country. A rugged rise of rock, peppered with pine forests, smoldering volcanoes and jagged coastline, Hokkaido has been the native homeland of the Indigenous Ainu people for centuries. On the other hand, 150-plus years of fast-tracked development have added a contemporary character to the island and motorways have sprung up across the expansive prefecture, facilitating convenient travel between formerly far-flung towns and cities. From the buzzing neon lights of Sapporo to the sacred settlement on the shores of Lake Akan, here’s four of the best destinations to visit across Japan’s second-largest island. 

(Carving a way forward: Toru Kaizawa on preserving Ainu traditions in Hokkaido)

Kushiro

A port city in eastern Hokkaido, Kushiro feels more like a quaint fishing town than the regional capital. With a long-standing fishing industry and thriving market, Kushiro is known for its seafood: amble around the downtown area towards the harbour to get a glimpse of the local fishermen at work. Afterwards, head to Kushiro Washo Market, the local fish market, where visitors can choose their favourite sashimi and create their own seafood rice bowl, otherwise known as katte don. Alternatively, visit one of the various izakaya (laidback Japanese bars) offering robatayaki (fresh local seafood grilled over charcoal).

Located just 30 minutes north by car, Kushiro Shitsugen National Park, Japan's largest wetland, is also well worth a visit. It’s home to a huge variety of plants and animals, including the white-tailed eagle, the rare Siberian salamander, the Ezo sika deer and the iconic red-crowned crane. A guided canoe tour with Touro Nature Center takes travellers through the many winding waterways.

Lake Akan

About an hour’s drive north of Kushiro lies Lake Akan Ainu Kotan, a sacred, lakeside settlement home to Hokkaido’s Indigenous Ainu peoples. More than 100 live in the area, many of whom share their culture and traditions through the town’s various museums and small craft shops. Chief among them is wood carving, traditionally the domain of Ainu men, who sculpt wood into tools and adorn their surfaces with patterns passed down through generations. Pick up a unique souvenir at Jissenkoubou Ashiri or Osarun Betsu Kotan-Ya before catching a traditional dance performance at the town’s local theatre. Held from late April to late October and from early December to mid-March, these performances are used to express respect and gratitude towards their ancestors and the kamuy (Ainu gods).

Lake Akan is also the perfect stopover for any visit to Shiretoko National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most untamed spots on an already wild island. Made up of a craggy spine of mountains, including several volcanoes, the park is perfect for hiking and, in the winter, snowshoeing. Near the town of Utoro on the peninsula’s western side, the Shiretoko National Park Nature Center offers snowshoe rental. From here, head out on the Furepe Waterfall trail, which takes in meadows and old-growth forest in the shadows of Mount Tenchosan, Mount Rausu and Mount Io.

After a day of exertion, take a soothing soak in the mineral-rich waters at any of the town’s traditional onsens, such as Akan Yuku no Sato, a resort and spa which provides a luxurious spin on the classic Japanese ryokan (traditional inn) experience. There’s a large communal bath and a rooftop with panoramic views of Lake Akan.

Sapporo 

The capital of the island and Japan's fifth largest city, Sapporo is a destination where visitors can appreciate an alternative, more modern Hokkaido — one that features hip wineries, various izakayas serving local delicacies, and a plethora of art galleries and museums. To feel the pulse of the city, head to the Susukino district, awash with revellers under its buzzing neon lights. Just a few streets away is Tanukikoji, a covered shopping street divided into blocks, each with a distinct personality. The seventh block (nana-chou-me) has become a recent local hotspot for its variety of gourmet options.

Sapporo is also known for its thriving arts scene. A short drive from the city are two outdoor attractions which fuse the natural with the creative. The first is renowned architect Tadao Ando’s ‘Hill of the Buddha’, which features a huge stone statue of buddha atop a hill covered in lavender plants. The second is the late Japanese-American sculptor Isamu Noguchi’s Moerenuma Park, an outdoor park of various art installations and pathways, spread across undulating hills and pine forest. Standouts include a glass Louvre-like pyramid, a sculptural playground of more than 126 gem-coloured installations and a sandy beach for the warmer months.

Yoichi

A one-hour drive from Sapporo, at the base of Shakotan Peninsula, Yoichi is picturesque seaside town primarily known for its whisky. Founded in 1934 by Masataka Taketsuru, the Nikka Whisky Yoichi Distillery is a must-visit to learn about the origins (and to get a taste) of this award-winning tipple. The area is also home to bountiful grape production, which has seen multiple new wineries emerge over the last decade specialising in either traditional or natural wines. There’s said to be a friendly rivalry between the two wine producing camps, which makes for an interesting visit to the vineyards. While some remain closed to the public, Camel Farm Winery offers an excellent tour and tasting package, while visitors can try a broader sample of the local wines at LOOP, a wine restaurant downtown.