From carnival to cathedrals: the inside guide to Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, the charismatic capital city

A subtropical island in the Canaries, 62 miles west of Morocco, Gran Canaria is best known by beachgoers for its year-round sunshine and traditional resorts. But the island is home to many other treasures, particularly Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, its enchanting capital, which can satiate every cultural and culinary whim with its high-brow bars, restaurants and museums. Add to this a calendar of lively festivals, an assortment of easy-to-reach day trips, mountains and gigantic dunes, and you’ll understand why Gran Canaria is dubbed a ‘continent in miniature’.

(Where to eat in Gran Canaria: five unmissable culinary experiences)

To discover the city’s soul, head to the historic quarter of Vegueta, where atmospheric colonial buildings line narrow cobbled alleyways. The city’s Santa Ana Cathedral, which dominates leafy Plaza Mayor, took nearly 400 years to complete — a trajectory traceable in the looming facade, sun-dappled stained-glass windows and lofty columns that combine neo-classical, gothic and Renaissance influences. Explore its interiors then take the lift (or 216 steps) up to the bell tower for sweeping vistas of the cityscape and harbour.

For more island history, head to Casa-Museo de Colón, a handsome colonial mansion-turned-museum dedicated to Christopher Columbus and his relationship to the island. This is chronicled through a fascinating collection of ancient maps, model galleons and original letters written in Columbus’s hand. Nearby, Museo Canario delves into the island’s precolonial past, displaying several mummies, a whole hall of human skulls and a wealth of prehistoric tools made by the island’s aboriginal settlers. The Vegueta district is also home to the Centro Atlántico de Arte Moderno, which boasts a sweeping modern art collection of more than 2,500 works collected from the Americas, Africa and Europe.

Once you’ve worked up an appetite, options abound in the form of quaint tavernas, bustling food markets and fine-dining restaurants. Old-word glamour characterises Michelin-starred Poemas by Hermanos Padrón, where diners are treated to a flawless 14-course tasting menu within stately Hotel Santa Catalina, the island’s oldest hotel. For more contemporary tastes, Tabaiba is the creation of sombrero-sporting chef Abraham Ortega, who masterfully revitalises traditional island flavours using local, seasonal ingredients from land and sea. For a more informal lunch spot, rub shoulders with the locals at Mercado del Puerto, set under wrought-iron arches by the port; it bustles with pocket-sized tapas bars and market stalls piled high with succulent local produce.

Just minutes from the market hall is Playa las Canteras — a 2.5-mile stretch of golden sand perfect for adrenaline-pumping watersports or beachside downtime. A natural offshore reef makes the waters here brilliant for snorkelling, while sports enthusiasts can join in with the locals as they play beach volleyball or football. The palm-fringed beach is fringed by a lively promenade bustling with al fresco bars, ice cream parlours and sun-drenched cafe terraces that are perfect for people-watching. 

For sundowners, soak up the city from above in one of its various rooftop bars. Try Rooftop & Terrace Aloe, for cocktails overlooking Las Canteras beach, or head to the Ibex Hotel for live music. More elaborate live performances are in store at the Auditorio Alfredo, a renowned classical music venue that’s worth a visit just to see its impressive 10-metre-high, 2,750-pipe organ.

If you visit the capital in the winter months, a party atmosphere pervades the city. The annual Canary Islands International Music Festival celebrates its 40^th anniversary this year, promising a month-long programme of 60 concerts across all eight of the Canary Islands, including many hosted in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria. Festivities culminate in February, which brings carnival season to the island, when the city streets throng day and night with elaborate floats, costume parades, twirling dancers and music troupes.

Top three excursions from Las Palmas de Gran Canaria

1. Take a hike in Tejada 
Well-marked hiking trails crisscross the island, where arduous ascents are rewarded by breathtaking vistas. From the village of Tejada, a circular trail winds around jagged peaks and through pine forests to the mirador at Cruz de Tejada, with the formidable Roque Nublo — a giant volcanic monolith once worshipped by the island’s aboriginal settlers — dominating the skyline. Don’t miss nearby Artenara, studded with cave dwellings, and a pit stop before heading to the prehistoric drawings in Acusa Seca.

2. Scale the dunes of Maspalomas
Gran Canaria’s answer to the Sahara is the undulating dunes of Maspalomas on the island’s south coast — two square miles of shifting, golden sands whipped into mesmerising ridges by the ocean winds. The dunes are easily explored on foot, but as the area is a protected nature reserve, one must stick to the marked walking trails.

 3. Visit the fishing village of Puerto de Mogán 
Exploring the island’s seaside along the southern coast offers plenty of opportunities for sunbathing and swimming. Here, you’ll find the picturesque fishing village of Puerto de Mogán, nicknamed Gran Canaria’s ‘Little Venice’ for its Italian-style bridges crossing over the watery inlets and traditional, whitewashed houses. There are various seafood restaurants dotted around the crescent-shaped bay, where a buzzy atmosphere makes the port resort worthy of an evening stopover.