How the leader of Belize’s first all-female cooperative is keeping Maya traditions alive

With its highlands draped in sub-tropical rainforest and its Caribbean coastline cradling the world's second largest barrier reef, Belize is a cornucopia of natural beauty. It’s also at the heart of the ancient Maya kingdom, one of the most influential and established Indigenous societies of Mesoamerica, reaching its peak in 250 to 900 A.D. 

Hugging the border with Guatemala, in the westernmost district of Cayo, San Antonio is one such village where Maya influences and ancient traditions can still be felt. Nestled within a verdant valley ringed by mountains, fertile lands and an abundance of flora and fauna, San Antonio was first inhabited by the Yucatec Maya in 1842, who arrived in search of sanctuary, and is now home to 3,500 people, making it the largest Maya community in the country.

The average household here has seven children and, as in many societies around the world where resources are scarce, girls often struggle to access secondary and higher education. The result is that many Maya women in San Antonio find their opportunities for employment limited.

Enter Timotea Mesh, leader of the San Antonio Women’s Cooperative, who’s made it her life’s work to empower the women and children in her community. Born into a large Yucatec Maya family of 10 children, she recalls growing up in San Antonio: "We worked the land just like everyone else in our community, planting seeds by hand, growing fruit, vegetables, legumes and edible flowers to feed our family,” she explains. “My father was a hunter, so we occasionally had fresh meat to eat, too, but I remember finding it difficult.”

“I married young, at just 17 years old, with very little education and prospects. But I’d always loved to read. As a young mother, I wanted to improve my life for myself, my family and my community. I also wanted to learn more about my heritage and roots.”

It was through reading that Timotea learned about traditional Maya arts and crafts such as embroidery, pottery and cooking — many of which have been practiced by her ancestors for centuries. “Except for our local language and working the farm, my mother never taught me these traditions. I’ve never fully understood what it means to be a Maya woman, but I finally realise how unique our culture is. It’s part of my identity; it’s what makes me special.”

The roots of the organisation

Upon conversing with friends, Timotea quickly realised that the women in her community were just like her, all looking to learn new skills, find more ways to earn an income and ensure their culture wasn’t lost. She invited them to join her in the evenings to practice traditional pottery, embroidery and cookery, which, over time, saw the group expand from just five women to a dozen. It was at that point, in 2001, where Timotea met with government officials to register the project as the San Antonio Women’s Cooperative, a nonprofit organisation that offers education to visitors and the local community.

“We’ve welcomed tourists so that they can learn about our culture and support our projects,” Timotea explains. “I love the work we do, but if I had to pick, my favourite class is traditional pottery making. I like to work with my hands, touch the wet clay and apply the finishing touches of paint and carvings.” The cooperative's pottery, created by hand from locally sourced clay and mineral pigments, is inspired by ancient Maya ceramics unearthed by archaeologists in the surrounding region of San Antonio.

The cooperative also offers cultural presentations on the art of Huipil embroidery (colourful handwoven Maya blouses) and demonstrations on corn grinding and how to make traditional tortillas. Guests are then invited to enjoy a traditional Maya meal of fresh tamales, corn soup and tortillas, plus whatever else the cooperative is mustering up that day. All meals derive from ancient recipes and the food is grown in the local community.

There are currently 13 young women working at the cooperative and another dozen local artisans contributing to its gift shop. Here, visitors can buy traditional Maya handicrafts such as beaded jewellery, woven baskets, pottery, and stone and wood carvings, plus other traditional items such as hand-embroidered runners, tablecloths, dresses and blouses. All the profits goes back into the community, helping to pay for supplies such as yarn, threads and materials, as well as providing scholarships for young women to continue their education.

“Two girls sponsored through the cooperative have recently graduated high school, and this is only just the beginning!” Timotea beams. “It’s these small steps that make me hopeful. We face many challenges to keep our culture and traditions alive and, like many mothers in my community, I didn’t teach my own children our local language because I thought they’d have better opportunities if I brought them up speaking English and Spanish. I’m now trying to rectify that; I hope it’s not too late.”

Despite the challenges, the cooperative continues to make great strides and has been named the best cultural experience in Belize by the tourism board in 2022, leading to more widespread recognition and an increase in annual visitors.

“When I think about what it means to be a Maya woman, I feel unbelievably proud," Timotea states. "My vision for the future is to keep cultivating and preserving our roots, so we can pass our traditions down to my children and the generations to come.”

Top three Maya crafts to look out for in Belize

1. Clothing & textiles
Weaving colourful cotton textiles was an art form among high-ranking Maya women. Threads were dyed with natural products such as plants, animals and mineral sources and a backstrap loom would weave patterns, usually glyphs, geometric shapes, plants and flowers. Today, Maya textiles still feature elaborate colours and patterns representing religious and cultural symbols. Favourites to bring home include decorative tablecloths, runners, blankets, purses and women’s apparel, all available at local shops such as the Maya Center Women's Group Gift Shop located along the Southern Highway.

 2. Jewellery
During the height of the Maya civilisation, jewellery represented status and power. It was worn abundantly, including heavy necklaces, huge pendants, wrist and ankle cuffs and large earrings made of jade, amber, seashells and pearls. Maya peoples continue to make jewellery by hand using beads, slate, wood, natural stone and coral. Beaded bracelets, necklaces and earrings, as well as handmade bowls, coasters and décor, can all be purchased at the Orange Galley in the Cayo District.

3. Handwoven baskets 
For many millennia, Maya women have weaved elaborate baskets to collect the harvest, carry belongings and store items. Traditionally, Maya women gather endemic plants and trees to source fibres, adding vibrant, colourful fabric to transform their baskets into a work of art. A handwoven piece is a great way to support local artisans and bring something special home from Belize. The Fajina Craft Center, located in Punta Gorda, is an authentic place to get your hands on one.