Rediscover real island living
Untouched until the 18th century, Seychelles is a remarkable place of pristine natural beauty. This nation of granitic and coralline isles scattered in the Indian Ocean redefines the idea of an island escape.
There are many places that call themselves paradise, but Seychelles, near-equatorial islands strung like emeralds through the turquoise blues of the remote western Indian Ocean, surely claims the crown. A hotbed of biodiversity, these coral-fringed, jungle-clad isles were spotted by the Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama in 1502, but the first Europeans to set foot here were British—representatives of the British East India Company in 1609. Yet Seychelles remained unsettled until almost two centuries later, when French and English colonists arrived. Such isolation saw native and endemic flora thrive: Today, Seychelles remains a place of startlingly pristine natural beauty, far removed from over-touristed archipelagos where high-rise hotels ring coastlines and cruise ships stop for box-tick sightseeing.
Silica-white, palm-backed beaches abound, and while it’s entirely possible to while away a week on one island, this would mean missing out on the sheer diversity Seychelles has to offer. Just 30-or-so miles (50 kilometers) of ocean stretch between the nation’s 41 inner isles, the world's only mid-oceanic islands of granitic rock, a tightly packed inner core that’s a boon for island-hopping, linked by an efficient ferry system that fans out from the main island of Mahé to neighboring Praslin, La Digue, and beyond. While in the remote outer fringes of the archipelago, coral atolls are given over to nature reserves and a scattering of one-resort islands, which act as custodians of nature.
More than 50 percent of the country is protected by natural reserves, both marine and terrestrial. Even on the main island, Mahé—the hub for international flights and inter-island ferries—travelers can find hiking trails that twist up into mist-strung mountains. Follow tracks through the 7,525-acre (3,045-hectare) Morne Seychellois National Park, which covers 20 percent of Mahé’s landmass, to reach the nation’s highest peak, Morne Seychellois, for views across the archipelago. But pause to take in the sights en route: Mahé may be the most populated Seychelles island, but endemic creatures thrive here, including several species of orchid, the tiny Seychelles frog, and the carnivorous, insect-snacking pitcher plant.
Just north of Mahé, the green dragon-backed spine of Silhouette rises from the ocean. A protected nature reserve on both land and surrounding waters, the archipelago’s third largest island is a haven for the endangered Seychelles kestrel and sheath-tailed bat. Hike up Mount Dauban, the island’s steeply forested 2,560 feet (780 meters) mountain peak, to spot them both, along trails lined with endemic flowering plants and cinnamon trees. Beyond a Hilton resort tucked discreetly into easterly Anse La Passe beach, there are few signs of human life here. The 1860s clapboard plantation house of the Dauban family, who once owned the island, was recently renovated to museum status. Follow trails down to deeply inset bays where snorkeling is rewarded with sights of pufferfish and fiery-colored reef octopus.
Aldabra, one of the world’s largest raised coral atolls, is home to hundreds of species not found anywhere else on the planet, from ocean-swimming turtles to iconic land-dwelling giant tortoises. With no airstrip, harbor, helipad or hotels, this remote four-island atoll acts as a mini-Galapagos, isolated from human interference. These UNESCO-listed isles host red-footed boobies, frigatebirds, Aldabra drongos and, most famously, the largest population of giant tortoises in the world. Its central lagoon, larger than Mahé, is densely carpeted with seagrass where herds of dugong graze.
The seductive draw of these aquamarine waters is strong, but remember to lift your eyes to the skies. Seychelles is home to well over 200 avian species including some of the largest seabird colonies in the world—terns, tropicbirds, brown and lesser noddies and frigatebirds. Aride Island alone hosts the world’s largest colonies of Audubon’s shearwaters and lesser noddies. Tours here, led by naturalist guides, reveal conservation success stories, with the chance to encounter pure white fairy terns. Aptly named Bird Island sees some 1.5 million sooty terns amass each spring on a break from their globe-spanning journeys, while Cousin Island, another birding hotspot, is home to Seychelles fodies and warblers.
The islands’ national bird, the endemic Seychelles black parrot, is best spotted on Praslin, among the palms in the Vallée de Mai. Along with its neighboring island, Curieuse, Praslin is one of the few places in the world where the coco de mer palm grows. Its voluptuous nut has long been the stuff of legend, weighing up to 90 pounds (40kg) and measuring some 20 inches (50 centimeters) in length. It has been credited with numerous powers, from improving fertility to healing fatal illness. A guided walk through the Vallée de Mai Nature Reserve reveals just how many species rely on this potent palm, from geckos and recently discovered species of frog and cricket, to Seychelles black parrots, whose whistling call enlivens the Jurassic Park-like canopy.
Praslin, like every island in the archipelago, is home to showstopping beaches offering the simple and abundant pleasures of swimming in those famed Seychelles turquoise waters and sailing to blissful bays. Try Anse Lazio in the northwest, framed by sculptural granite boulders, or the fine powdery white sands of Anse Georgette.
Swimming, picnics and pedaling are the order of the day on nearby La Digue, an island where bicycles far outnumber cars and journeys between pink boulder-lined bays are easily achievable. The pace here is slow, and slower still when navigating giant tortoises, found snoozing in the middle of the road. Pull up at a roadside shack for home-cooked fish curries, and ladob stews of saltfish, cassava, and coconut spiced with nutmeg.
The remarkable clarity of the water surrounding these islands means swimmers, snorkelers and kayakers in translucent craft enjoy much the same visibility as divers—a rainbow show of reef fish, rays and myriad turtle species. But there are unique treasures for divers here, too, among the numerous wrecks where huge reef gardens have formed—and in the remote outer coral atolls. Head to the Alphonse atoll for the chance to swim with vast schools of tropical fish, spinner dolphins, and even eagle rays.
For active types who prefer dry land, Mahé has the rare honor of hosting the FIFA Beach Soccer World Cup Seychelles 2025 in May. Along with basketball, beach soccer is a national passion and the tournament's first edition hosted in the Africa region will see the capital of Victoria abuzz with activity. From the beachfront stadium to the capital’s Victorian-era food market, rum shacks and Creole restaurants, this will be a fine time to discover local Seychellois culture and cuisine.
