Meet the Himalayan trekking guide reclaiming the mountains for women

When 27-year-old Sumitra Acharya took on a job as a trekking porter in 2019, she had a mountain to climb. With Nepal’s outdoor industry a male-dominated field, she defied societal expectations, carrying 15kg loads of clothing, supplies, sleeping bags and more for some 10 miles a day to ease the burden for visiting mountaineers. Five years on, she’s leading expeditions to Everest Base Camp and Annapurna — and, she hopes, inspiring other Nepalese women to reach for new heights.

Why are there so few women in Nepal’s trekking industry?

The willingness is there, but it’s not easy out in the field. Guides are on the job for long stretches of time, and for long days, mostly in male groups. The traditional view in our society is still that women need to be near the house, do chores. The outdoors isn’t thought to be for them — not yet.

Why did you decide to become a porter?

I decided to work in the tourism industry, and I saw tour operator Intrepid was looking for female porters. I instantly said no; at the time, I’d even complain about having to carry bags home from my local market. But when I told my mother, her first reaction was, “If it’s not for you, you can always come back home — but at least give it a try.” So, I did.

What challenges did you face?

My parents and brothers supported me, but other relatives and friends told me I was making a mistake. And while there were other female porters and guides at Intrepid, I saw no local women on the trails. I was discouraged by male porters I’d meet at base camps or checkpoints. They’d see me and snort. They told me I was beautiful, that I should get married and enjoy my husband’s money. Some would stare at me like I was an alien, around hotel corners or sitting in dining halls.

Where did you find the resilience to keep going?

The people I was working with had my back. They taught me everything, from controlling my pace while hiking to befriending hotel owners so I wouldn’t get homesick. As we say, when there are 1,000 shackles binding you, there’s always one thing that can set you free.

Has the industry changed since you joined?

The number of female porters, assistant guides and leaders at Intrepid keeps growing. There were a few when I joined; this year, at Intrepid, we’re 37 and counting. I have a few close friends who are passionate about the outdoors, be it climbing or trekking. Their families don’t believe they should pursue it as a career, but they’re taking a stand for themselves. I think that’s the major difference now. Girls are getting an education and want to be independent.

Where does your passion for the outdoors come from?

I always wanted to do solo backpacking trips, but I didn’t do any exploring until I was 20. I was born in a rural community in Sindhupalchok district, northeast of Kathmandu, but raised in a city in the Kathmandu Valley. There are no transport links to my home village; whenever I visited, I struggled to walk the hour and a half it took to get there, so I thought I wasn’t made to climb mountains. Then, while studying agriculture in Jiri town, I went on a hike to nearby Cherdung Hill, which reaches 12,000ft. It proved to me that this was something I could do.

What are some of your favourite hikes?

Besides Everest, another popular trekking area in the Himalayas is Manaslu — the eighth-highest mountain in the world at 26,781ft. You can still find a proper sense of rawness there, in the local culture and traditions. As for new hikes I’d like to do myself, it would be the country’s far west. There are a number of destinations, but my pick would be Upper Dolpo.

What is your proudest achievement?

If one single girl is inspired by my story, that’d be it. But equally, I’m proud to be here, talking about my life and how it’s changed in just five years. I’m doing my dream job, showing my country to people from around the world. I feel like a leader.

Intrepid runs a number of small-group trips to Nepal.