Where to Have the Best Pintxos in San Sebastián

Some cities are famous for their food, others for their beauty. Occasionally, you find one that’s renowned for both; that’s very much the case with San Sebastián in the Basque Country. Set on Northern Spain’s Atlantic coast, it has an elegant seafront promenade, belle Époque sandstone buildings, colonnaded squares and tree-lined boulevards. Its reputation as a gastronomic capital is similarly stellar, with a high concentration of Michelin-starred restaurants. But it’s in its tiny pintxos bars, eating standing up surrounded by locals, where visitors can find the soul of the city.

Start your tour in San Sebastián’s 19th-century city centre, or ensanche, amid hanging hams, pine panelled walls and lively chatter at one of its best-known traditional bars, Casa Valles. This is where the most famous pintxo of them all was invented: the gilda, comprising a salty anchovy, punchy green olive and spicy guindilla pepper, threaded onto a cocktail stick. It’s best washed down with a glass of locally brewed cider or txakoli, a crisp, white Basque wine.

Just around the corner, you’ll find the neo-gothic Buen Pastor Cathedral. Translating as ‘Good Shepherd’, it’s home to Spain’s largest church organ, as well as magnificent stained glass windows. It’s also just yards away from San Martin Merkatua, a smart indoor food market with stalls selling top quality fruit, vegetables, meat and fish, plus some excellent bars.

(This Basque City is Known for Pintxos—and it's not San Sebastian.)

Fill your lungs with fresh Atlantic air as you stroll with joggers, families and buskers along the palm tree-lined promenade flanking the sweeping curve of La Concha Beach. Just past the traditional carousel and grand, twin-towered fin-de-siècle City Hall is the 16th-century arched gate to the Parte Vieja (Old Town).

Down one of its narrow streets, the minimalist Muxumartin is one of several newer bars serving contemporary pintxos amid rough-hewn brick walls. Try the gutsy, prize-winning chicken with ginger and mayonnaise. In the streets nearby, fanning out from the neo-classical Plaza de la Constitución, you’ll find bars almost everywhere you look. Be prepared to jostle for a seat at the wooden counter of Txepetxa, which opened in 1925. Its signature pintxo is the montadito — a toasted slice of baguette topped with a sliver of anchovy and flavoursome smoked salmon.

The family-run Ganbara is even more popular, with queues stretching round the block at almost any time of day or night. Tuck into mini crab tartlets filled with almost mousse-like flakes of soft crab meat, served in the small bar with walls lined with gilt-framed paintings.

To escape the crowds, head over the Urumea River to Bar Bergara, in the Gros neighbourhood. Bergara is credited with having pioneered the modern pintxos concept back in the 1980s. The champi con gamba brasa — a grilled, woody mushroom and sweet, succulent prawn on a small metal skewer, dressed with a rich garlic and white wine sauce — is exceptional.

Finally, after exploring the extensive art, photography and archaeology collections at San Telmo Museum, indulge in San Sebastián’s most famous dessert: Basque burnt cheesecake. Bar-restaurant La Viña makes the best, with a gloriously moreish, custard-like centre and a lightly toasted, browned top.