How to Plan a Trip to Cyprus's Vine-Clad Troodos Mountains

An island nation in the Mediterranean’s eastern fringes, Cyprus sits at the intersection of three continents — a geographical position that’s profoundly shaped its history. Annexed by an endless parade of empires — including the Greeks, Romans, Byzantines and Ottomans — in 1878, Cyprus became a British protectorate. These last rulers chose the lofty, leafy Troodos Mountains as their summer capital to escape the heat of the coast, and it’s still favoured by locals from spring to autumn. Cyprus became independent in 1960, but vestiges of its storied past are everywhere, from its ancestral grapes, mavro and xynisteri, to mural-washed churches hidden among the hills and turn-of-the-century mansions left by long-gone grandees. The village of Platres, once a royal retreat, is an ideal base from which to explore the region. Short, scenic drives lead to villages where the old ways are still prized and local, seasonal food is championed. On the fringes of these communities are abundant opportunities for exploring this wildly beautiful terrain on foot, with easily navigable paths that reveal its timeless landscapes.

Day 1: Scenery & Stargazing

Morning

Just outside Platres, the two-mile Caledonia Trail follows the path taken by a late 19th-century expedition party from Scotland, who were so struck by the terrain’s resemblance to home they gave it the country’s Latin name. Begin your journey in their footsteps at Psilo Dendro Trout Farm & Restaurant, ascending along the banks of the Kryos Potamos River — occasionally trip-trapping over wooden bridges and stepping stones — until you reach the 12-metre-high Caledonia Waterfall.

Afternoon

Park up on the outskirts of Vouni village, nine miles south, then wander its quiet cobbled alleyways and traditional wood-balconied houses, home to 200 people and countless swallow and swift nests. The friendly owner of Lenia’s Tavern on Timiou Prodromou is a mezze-master — sit at one of the colourful outdoor tables to try dishes like koupepia (stuffed vine leaves) and keftedes (meatballs). Afterwards, stroll over to Plateia, one of Cyprus’s prettiest coffeeshops, established in 1908. With its fresh white-and-blue exterior and tree-shaded terrace, it’s an appealing place to watch the world go by. Also well worth visiting is the village of Pelendri, a half-hour drive north — home to the Church of the Holy Cross, one of 10 painted churches in the region recognised by Unesco. Just outside the village, Tsiakkas Winery also offers tours and tastings, and has knockout views.

Evening

Tuck in to fresh salads at Pelendri’s Symposio Tavern, which grows many of its own vegetables in a small kitchen garden. From here, it’s a 20-minute drive to the Troodos Observatory in Agradia, built in 2024 at an altitude of 1,250 metres to offer the clearest possible views for its astronomer-led stargazing experience. For a better look at its spaceship-like architecture, consider visiting during daylight for a solar observation session.

Day 2: Walks & Wine

Morning

The original Mount Olympus, mythological home of the gods, is in mainland Greece — but Cyprus’s tallest peak has the same name, and even mere mortals can tackle the five-mile hike around its summit. Named after the goddess of nature, the Artemis Trail begins and ends in the car park for the Cyprus Ski Club. In summer, hikers can expect pinecones and needles crunching underfoot from the extensive forest cover; the occasional cuckoo call; and high-altitude views all the way to the coast.

Afternoon

Having worked up an appetite, drive half an hour north to Kalopanayiotis — home to pioneering community tourism project Casale Panayiotis. Saddened by the depopulation and decline of the village he’d loved since childhood, John Papadouris bought up empty properties, restoring and converting them to create a charmingly higgledy-piggledy 41-room hotel. It features several cafes and restaurants, including relaxed Byzantino, with its screen-shaded terrace. The restaurant majors in Cypriot flavours — from seasonal produce grown on site to grilled lamb cutlets with lemon and rosemary — all served with sweeping views along the Marathasa Valley. It’s a two-minute walk to the Monastery of St John Lampadistis, a complex of three stone churches built around a cobbled courtyard. Inside are vivid frescoes, some dating to the 13th century, plus intriguing offerings left by pilgrims, such as wax models of babies and body parts. Hop back into the car for the 10-minute climb to Marathasa Wines, which has the look of a mid-century Bond villain’s lair. Transparent cylinders offer a window on the different stages of the production process: harvest, fermentation and bottling. Try a glass of ultra-light local white xynisteri.

Evening

At first, it might not seem much to look at, but once visitors encounter Kakopetria’s old quarter, they fall for it hard and fast. Its handful of narrow streets feature a Greek Orthodox church with a bijou bell tower, historic houses and vine-strewn pergolas — and its pavement cafes are popular for a sundowner. Stop by wood-beamed Linos Inn for mezze starring Cypriot halloumi, served grilled to squeaky perfection. Afterwards, wander to the old watermill, starting point for the 20-minute Vateris Nature Trail, which hugs the Karkotis River.

Top Five Local Makers

Phini Pottery

This tiny village (also spelled Foini) is known for its decorative red clay ceramics — an art form that’s on Unesco’s Intangible Heritage List. Local artisans have been making amphora, bowls and cups since the Bronze Age, and the practice is maintained mostly by women mastorisses (master potters). Giota Aristidou offers workshops in the studio she inherited from her grandma.

Vlassides Wine

Third-generation winemaker Sophocles Vlassides revitalised his family’s business in Koilani after training as an oenologist in California. His vineyard’s striking architecture — all clean lines, concrete and glass — reflects the contemporary, sustainable viticulture practised within. Learn about it on a tour, then sample a summery rosé or the oak-aged white alátes (‘wings’) while overlooking the vines.

Traditional Sweets

Elena Markantoni, known as ‘Elena the Grape’, makes the Cypriot sweet soutzoukos at her small shop in the sleepy village of Arsos. Almonds are threaded onto a string and then repeatedly dipped into a vat of palouzes (thickened grape juice) to create long, candle-shaped treats. Alternatively, stop by the Willy Wonka-esque Ourania Delights in Phini for jelly-like cubes of loukoumia, very similar to Turkish delight.

Rose Cosmetics

Home to an annual spring festival honouring the flower, the village of Agros sits among the terraced hillsides where 90% of Cyprus’s aromatic damask roses grow. Established in 1948 by the Tsolakis family, small-scale factory Venus Rose Cosmetics welcomes those interested in learning more about the bloom’s antioxidant and antiseptic properties. Visit in May and it’s even possible to participate in the harvest.

Platres’s Lavender Legacy

These fragrant purple flowers were much loved by Queen Victoria and thrived during the British occupation of Cyprus, when Platres was favoured as a royal retreat. Today, the village’s Cultural Centre offers a deep dive into this forgotten history, plus various free workshops — from lavender bag-making to decoupage — in a space that’s an affectionate homage to a turn-of-the century British cafe.