Everything you should know about Canyonlands National Park
With some of the most significant rock art in North America, Canyonlands National Park is a striking landscape of canyon mazes, unbroken scarps, and sandstone pillars.
John Wesley Powell and his intrepid rafters floated through the Canyonlands of south-central Utah on their epic 1869 expedition down the Green and Colorado rivers, but the region’s brutal and almost inaccessible topography made sure the area was largely unexplored until the middle of the 20th century.
Canyonlands still feels that way—wild and remote, disconnected from civilization, totally off the grid. Around 86 percent of the park is considered wilderness, landscapes that can only be explored via foot or four-wheel-drive.
While primarily known for its stunning overlooks and roller-coaster river rafting, Canyonlands is also a park for those who seek solitude and a place where the only footprints on a trail are yours.
“A panorama of light, space, rock, and silence,” is how author Edward Abbey described the region in Desert Solitaire, a masterpiece of nature writing set in Canyonlands and elsewhere in southern Utah. “A fantastic, complex, and impassible gulf” of rock and rivers.
Best times to visit Canyonlands National Park
Summers bring triple-digit temperatures and monsoon storms (with the possibility of flashfloods) to Canyonlands. A sprinkling of snow on the red-rock cliffs and mesas may look lovely in winter, but that means sub-zero nights and days that may not rise above freezing.
That means spring (April-May) and fall (September-October) are the best seasons to visit the park. In both seasons you can expect blue skies, dry conditions, and daytime temperatures in the 60º-80ºF (15º-26ºC) range.
Where to find the best views in the park
The best place in the park for sunsets is Green Overlook, in the Islands of the Sky area. For sunrise over the red-rock desert, head to Mesa Arch. Grand View Point offers one of the park’s widest panoramas of the insane topography. Short hikes lead to even more spectacular viewpoints at Upheaval Dome and Grand View Point Overlook.
On the opposite side of the Colorado River, Wooden Shoe Arch Overlook offers the best roadside view in The Needles district, while the Confluence Overlook Trail (11 miles/17.7 km return) provides an awesome bird’s-eye-view of the watery rendezvous of the Colorado and Green rivers.
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Where to find the best hiking trails
Short and easy trails to Mesa Arch and Grand View Point Overlook deliver incredible views with the least energy output. The trek to Murphy Point is longer (3.4 miles/5.5 km return) but also relatively flat and rewarding.
Harder hikes range from the Aztec Butte Trail (1.4 miles/2.3 km) past several Ancestral Puebloan structures to an all-day or possible overnight hike along the strenuous Syncline Trail (8.1 miles/13 km). The latter winds through canyons between Upheaval Dome and the Colorado River.
Due to its rugged terrain, The Needles offers few easy hikes. The Pothole Point Trail (0.6 mile/1 km return) renders some of the park’s most unusual geology, while the Slickrock Trail (2.4 miles/3.9 km return) rambles over rolling stoney terrain.
Dive deeper into The Needles on difficult, all-day hikes like the Chesler Point Loop (10.6 miles/17 km) or the Druid Arch Trail (10.8 miles/17.4 km), a challenging trek culminating with views of the trail’s namesake arch straight out of a Stonehenge picture book.
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The best spots to see wildlife
From mountain lions and black bears to porcupines, coyotes, and bobcats, there are plenty of creatures at ground level in Canyonlands National Park. However, they tend to roam far from the park roads, campgrounds, and visitor centers.
As such, the best way to see them is by hiking and camping in the park’s rugged backcountry. River trips offer the chance to glimpse desert bighorn sheep in the deep canyons.
Visitors who don’t venture far from the main roads are more likely to cross paths with mule deer, jackrabbits, ground squirrels, and lizards. Like anywhere else on the planet with wild things, the best time to catch animals in the open is dusk and dawn.
It’s much easier to observe birds in flight, especially with binoculars. Among the 270 bird species that have been sighted in the park are the golden eagle, raven, turkey vulture, pinyon jay, burrowing owl, and red-railed hawk. The park also counts 16 bat species.
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Expert recommendations & tips
“As the largest national park in Utah, Canyonlands presents visitors with a lot of choices,” says ranger Karen Henker, a public affairs specialist who gives talks on the park’s geology, wildlife, and human history.
She notes that most first-timers head to the Island in the Sky district, since it’s the closest to Moab. “In one full day, you can hike several of the mesa top trails or one of the longer, more strenuous trails,” she says. “And with a four-wheel-drive vehicle and a free day-use permit, you can explore the backcountry.”
“The White Rim Overlook Trail at Island in the Sky is one of my favorite places to fill my eyes with 200 degrees of scenery stretching all the way to the horizon,” she adds. “Takes my breath and worries away every time.”
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Henker says visitors who only have one day and want to hike or offroad may want to try The Needles district, where there are several six-to-11-mile hiking trail options and miles of four-wheel-drive roads affording amazing backcountry experiences. “It isn't hard to find places where you’re alone with your thoughts in the canyons,” she says. You’ll need a permit to drive.
“Folks who venture out to The Maze,” says Henker, “are typically confident, competent 4WD drivers with the ability to self-rescue, who are seeking several days of absolute quiet and solitude—or people on a tour with a company who provides the vehicle and guide.”
Things to do in Canyonlands National Park
For those who can’t venture into the park’s backcountry, the elongated Island In The Sky mesa renders many of the park’s most stunning views—including several spots where you can spot the Colorado and Green rivers far below—and the best short trails.
Just past the entrance station, Island in the Sky Visitor Center has maps, brochures, and information, as well as museum exhibits, backcountry permits, and ranger talks. From there, the park road meanders down the middle of the mesa with turnoffs to Upheaval Dome, Mesa Arch, Green River Overlook, and other sights. The road ends at Grand View Overlook which hovers above the southern tip of the mesa and the canyons that channel the two great rivers.
The rugged terrain on the eastern side of the Colorado River is The Needles district, named for the area’s multicolored pillars of Cedar Mesa Sandstone. Just past The Needles Visitor Center is the most accessible of the park’s 1,000-plus archeological sites, a small cliff dwelling called the Roadside Ruin constructed by the area’s Ancestral Puebloan people around 700 years ago.
A little farther down the road is The Needles Campground and an amphitheater, where rangers conduct evening and night sky programs during the spring and fall. Beyond the campground, the park road continues north to Pothole Point, Big Spring Canyon Overlook and the Slickrock Trail.
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Far and away the park’s least visited district, The Maze lies on the western side of the Green River, a rugged, remote, and magnificent red-rock wilderness. Roads are unpaved and may require four-wheel drive; trails are poorly marked and require good navigation skills.
The most popular hike is a daylong outing (7 miles/11.2 km) up Horseshoe Canyon to the Great Gallery with its ancient Puebloan rock art. Rangers lead guided walks of the canyon on most Saturdays in the spring and fall. Navtec Expeditions in Moab offers escorted journeys into The Maze lasting anywhere from one to four days.
For those who want to offroad on their own, Canyonlands offers several excellent 4x4 routes including White Rim Road, an epic 100-mile (160-km) drive below Island in the Sky, and Elephant Hill Road, a super-challenging 6.8-mile pathway in The Needles (/11 km return).
Another adventurous way to explore the Canyonlands backcountry is river rafting the Green or Colorado. Float trips along the Colorado include a white-knuckle run through Cataract Canyon, where the rapids reach Class IV and above.
(See the power of the Colorado River in Canyonlands)
Best things to do for families
Panoramic desert views from the edge of towering cliffs are just as mind blowing for kids as it is for their parents. But you must be extra careful, especially at viewpoints or along trails that are not fenced or walled. Never let children run ahead or wander even slightly off to the side.
Download the Junior Ranger Booklet before visiting the park or ask for one at a visitor center as you enter the park. It’s filled with information and activities related to Canyonlands and kids who complete the booklet can score a Junior Ranger Badge.
Two other amazing family activities are off-roading the park’s various 4x4 trails and whitewater rafting. The minimum age for rafting trips is usually nine or 10 years, although during high water in the spring (usually May-June) the minimum rises to between 12 and 16 years depending on the rafting company and the specific trip.
Short trails are a great option. “At Island in the Sky, Mesa Arch and Whale Rock are two kid-favorite hikes,” says Henker. “At The Needles, Cave Spring passes a cowboy camp and ancient rock images that can inspire young and older imaginations. And Pothole Point crosses a stretch of bedrock pockmarked with holes that collect water and sometimes support tiny aquatic ecosystems. And even when dry, it's a very neat landscape.”
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Where to stay
The park’s campgrounds at Island in the Sky and The Needles are both relatively small (38 total spaces) and offer no RV electrical hookups or dump stations. Backcountry and riverside camping are allowed but overnight permits are mandatory. Both campground reservations and backcountry permits are available at Recreation.gov.
The nearest full-service campgrounds outside the park are located at Dead Horse Point State Park near the Island in the Sky entrance. Another possibility is sleeping in safari-style tents at Glamping Canyonlands, around a 45-minute drive from The Needles entrance.
Moab, Utah offers a wide variety of accommodation at different price points, ranging from RV-friendly campgrounds to upscale riverside lodges.
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What else you should know
Entrances: The park has two main entrance gates: Island in the Sky in the north and The Needles in the east. The park’s rugged Maze section is only accessible via unpaved roads from Hans Flat Ranger Station in the west.
Visitor centers: Island in the Sky Visitor Center is open year-round from 8 a.m. or 9 a.m. until 4 p.m. The Needles Visitor Center is open 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. from April-October; reduced hours in the late fall; closed December-March.
Entrance fees: $30 per vehicle, $25 per motorcycle, $15 per person for those without their own vehicle. Purchase tickets here.
Are pets allowed: Pets are only allowed on established front-country roads, campgrounds, parking areas, and picnic area. They are not allowed on any trails, overlooks, visitor centers, river trips, or anywhere off-road or in the backcountry. Find full pet guidelines, including park temperatures, here.
How accessible is the park?
In a national park that’s nearly roadless, accessibility is limited in Canyonlands. Both visitor centers offer accessible restrooms, picnic areas, information desk, and museum exhibits. Both campgrounds offer accessible campsites. The Buck Canyon Overlook, Green River Overlook, and Grand View Point Overlook in the park’s Islands in the Sky section are all wheelchair accessible.
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Visitors with hearing disabilities may request an American Sign Language (ASL) interpreter for ranger-led programs. Large print and braille versions of the park brochure are available at the visitor center or downloadable online.
