A delicate plant with green leaves, ruby red stems, and white bulbs, ramps grow wild in the woods of eastern North America. They are foraged by ramp hunters and brought to farmers markets each year in early spring to a growing crowd of anxious enthusiasts. The wild leeks have a unique flavor of garlic and nuanced spring onion. The tender leaves melt in your mouth. These fleeting flavors beg to be paired with eggs. I added them to a spaghetti carbonara for a spring meal worth waiting for.

1. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil.

2. Wash ramps in cold water. Remove and chop ends. Carefully slice leaves in half lengthwise.

3. Cook the pancetta in a pan over