A woman of the Bai ethnic group uses a bamboo pole to adjust colorfully dyed clothes drying along a series of bamboo poles above.

Beloved yet banned: The surprising history of tie-dye

The ancient art form has existed for thousands of years. In that time it’s been outlawed, used in religious ceremonies, and celebrated as a symbol of love.

Duan Yinkai dries creations in a workshop in Zhoucheng Village, southwest China. Batik, the dyeing style seen here, is just one of the many tie-dyeing methods dating back to ancient times that developed independently, all over the globe.
Photograph by Lin Yiguang, Xinhua News Agency/eyevine/Redux

Tie-dyed clothing might not seem like millennia-old artistic craft. Known in North America as a symbol of the 1960s hippie movement, it makes for an easy DIY project with materials available at the dollar store. 

But throughout history, tie-dying has been a coveted, bespoke—and in some cases, forbidden—practice that could convey an individual’s status, role, and beliefs.

Different methods and styles of tie-dye originated largely independent from each other across the ancient world from Peru to Nigeria, Japan and Southeast Asia. The technique is a form of resist dyeing, in which thread is used or the textile is tied onto itself, to create knots that protect certain areas of the material from being dyed. Each culture found unique twists to add through

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