At 9:00 sharp on a recent June morning, Peter Campbell stood at the entrance to Naples’ famed National Archaeology Museum. Although the museum had been officially reopened for several weeks since Italy lifted its lockdown, and in normal times can host thousands of visitors a day, the minutes ticked by as the grand, salmon-colored building remained shut. A couple arrived. After 15 minutes, the doors swung open to reveal a guard visibly surprised to see three waiting guests.

Campbell’s visit had particular urgency. An American archaeologist with the British School at Rome, he would be leaving Italy in just weeks for a new job in the UK. So as many pent-up Neapolitans emerged from lockdown to seek beaches